Photographing the brown bears of Katmai National Park is on the bucket list of most wildlife photographers. Unfortunately for our 2020 guests, Brooks Lodge closed due to COVID. But, we rescheduled the trip for 2021 and the bears did not disappoint! Every year in late June and July, the salmon run out of Bristol Bay and up the Naknek River to spawn in Lake Brooks. This always leads to a prodigious number of brown bears congregating at Brooks Falls. At this time of year, it’s common to see daily averages of bears on the falls around 20 to 25 bears at any one time hanging out and catching salmon. On our first day, we saw 42 bears insight of Brooks Falls! The Bears must have taken the COVID year off and wanted to give us their top performance now that Backcountry was here again!
Russ and I arrived in the small town of King Salmon, AK, on Saturday, where we were to meet our Backcountry crew. After checking in to Antlers Inn, we reacquainted with returning participants and met many new guests. King Salmon is a storied little community built up around a U.S. Air Force base in the 1930s and 40s. Later, the Air Force Base was closed in the early 1990s but left a runway large enough to land a commercial jet. In the summer months, that’s precisely what Alaska Airlines does. They run a 737 into King Salmon between June and July to enjoy everything from hiking, fishing, and of course, wildlife photography. Our walk around King Salmon took us to some local establishments such as Eddies Fireplace Inn and the Sockeye Saloon. King Salmon sits along the Naknek River on the west side of the Aleutian Range of the Alaska Peninsula. The Naknek River flows from Naknek Lake out to Bristol Bay and carries an unprecedented number of salmon to their spawning grounds each summer.
The following day our bear crew assembled in time for coffee, and with a short wait, we were off! Branch River Air picked us up from Antlers Inn and headed down to the Naknek River to weigh our gear and load us into the planes. After shuffling, our crew loaded into five small floatplanes and took off on our adventure. Upon landing on Naknek Lake at Brooks Lodge, we disembarked the planes and immediately sat through bear school, where a park ranger taught us about the dos and don’ts at Katmai National Park.
The Bears in June and July are uniquely focused on the salmon attempting to make it to their spawning grounds in Lake Brooks and beyond. So the lower 48 park rules for distancing and behavior in National Parks such as Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks are slightly different in Katmai. For instance, in Katmai National Park, bears are given the right-of-way, guests to the park are asked to maintain a minimum distance of 50 yards at all times, and if you cannot slowly back away from a bear while speaking in a calm voice without closing the minimum distance to another bear, you are asked to group up with as many other guests as possible for safety. Bear school is interesting; we didn’t have a bear class where I went to school in Texas; we just learned about math and stuff.
After getting settled into our cabins, the crew headed out to The Treehouse to get our name on the list for the Brooks Falls Platform. On the way to the Treehouse, we stopped on the viewing areas at the new bridge over Brooks River. We were able to photograph some playful bears on the beach, snorkeling bears fishing under the bridge, and some were sitting around in the grass, taking it easy. After some time photographing from the bridge overlook, we continued to the Treehouse. Once we got our names on the list, we took a quick look at Brooks Falls from the Riffles Platform and were astonished by the number of bears on the river. We barely got our cameras out before our group name was called. The platform was packed! And I don’t mean with people (although it was shoulder-to-shoulder); I mean with bears!