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Trip Report: Yellowstone in Winter – Jan/Feb 2022
by Russell Graves
The extreme cold is tolerable if you are ready for it.

As we depart West Yellowstone on a lumbering snow coach at 7 am, the temperature is somewhere around minus five. While not as cold as I’ve seen it, it’s still frigid. The guests are layered in a fashion that makes the most sense to them both fashionably and practically. I speak to give instructions to the snow coach driver who’ll ferry us around for much of our Yellowstone in Winter photography adventure.

Per park rules, just not anyone can enter Yellowstone’s interior during the winter. Save for a scant stretch off-highway along the northern range that connects Gardiner to Cooke City, Montana, the rest of the park is off-limits to the casual visitor in the wintertime. Only national park service-approved operators with adequate transportation are allowed to enter the park proper during the winter. Even then, the entire park isn’t open because now, extreme cold and snow blankets the park. While the Yellowstone plateau looks beautiful adorned in winter’s coat, it is deadly for both man and beast.


Backcountry Journeys’ Yellowstone in Winter trip is a study in sensorial juxtaposition: beauty and danger live side by side continually in an uncomfortable dance for survival. The snow and cold blanket envelop the landscape. The progeny of the extreme elements are animals caught in a perpetual spiral for survival. We are here to witness the drama.
On the trip, the first half is spent exploring the area on a snow coach. Days are spent in search of wildlife traversing the snowscape in search of food or prey. The search usually doesn’t take long as ungulates like bison and elk are typically pretty easy to find. In the snow, bison sway their enormous heads to plow the accumulated precipitation and clear the ground beneath.

While the enormous mammals get a face full of snow for their efforts, they also uncover grasses that while dormant, have stored up a summer’s full of solar energy in their stems and leaves. The meal is scant but sufficient and the bison must spend all of the waking hours feeding. The stored energy in the winter cured grasses is converted to heat energy as the grass is consumed, masticated, and makes the slow journey through the rumen to the abomasum and all parts in between. Naturally, the undigested grass passes through the bison, and the unspent nutrients pass in the dung back into the snow where they will decompose and feed the rangeland grasses in an unending cycle of nutrient exchange.

When you see the bison on the winter rangeland they look cold. Perhaps they are but the beasts are made for the cold. Like a well-insulated home, snow and ice accumulate on the exterior of the animal but because of their fur’s ability to insulate and hold in heat, hardly any of the heat escapes from around their body, and hence, the accumulated snow just piles up on the animal’s backs and does not melt. While they don’t look that way, I suspect that the bison are comfortable in their uncomfortable surroundings.

The bison congregate in large herds because there is safety in numbers. So long as all of the bison are healthy and vigorous, the life lived communally is generally safe for the bison. As such, most of them survive the brutal Yellowstone winters. Occasionally, however, one will succumb to the elements or a wandering predator like a wolf.

Pulling past the Gibbon River, we see a large herd fanned across a snowy hillside. Traipsing around the herd, we see two wolves milling about. While two wolves aren’t enough to take down a mature bison, I suspect this pair of will canines are a scouting party. They sniff about the bison herd to check out the overall robustness of the individuals that make up the herd. If one is sensed to be weak or sick, the wolf hunting party will muster and a hunt ensues. While the struggle is brutal and bloody, it’s necessary for the overall health and vigor of both the wolf and the bison.


Like ghosts, the wolves appear and disappear. We think we know where they’re headed so we travel downriver. By the time we get to where we think the wolves will be, a couple of members of the pack are already there. We stop and file out the snow coach to photograph them and then the rest of the pack pours from the woods to the river bottom meadow. For twenty minutes we photograph them howling and interacting with one another. It’s a scene rarely witnessed much less photographed and here we are, with proverbial “front row tickets.”

While in the park’s interior we see the usual sights like the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, Old Faithful, and other thermal features and always stop to photograph endemic wildlife no matter the species. From our temporary base in West Yellowstone, we commonly see American dippers, swans, ravens, and bison. While we expect to see other predators like foxes and coyotes, they aren’t always as accessible but we do see them.

During both phases of the trip, we look for wildlife safari style. We take to the roads and search for the likely places where we’ll see wild animals. This sort of spot-and-stalk technique is valuable and we don’t depart from what works. As the trips continue and we move to the second phase of the trip, we explore Lamar Valley from our Cooke City, Montana lodging. The amount of wildlife we see on the trip is astonishing. Along upper Soda Butte Creek, a pair of moose browse alongside the road, seemingly oblivious to us. We stop and in the perfect evening light, take their picture.


At another stop a coyote circle back from a sage flat and walks directly towards us – each guest getting photos they never thought possible before. And on yet another stop, a group of bighorn sheep lazily browse along a hillside. Time after time, we rarely have to look long to find wildlife – that’s what the Winter in Yellowstone trip is all about. Incredible and abundant opportunities to see wildlife and Yellowstone in a way that most never do. It’s winter’s solitude at its natural best.











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 AUTHOR 

Raised in rural Texas, Russell is the product of a modest, blue-collar upbringing, a stalwart work ethic, and a family who put no bounds on his imagination and creativity. When Russell was a junior in high school, he wrote a research paper for his end-of-year English project. The research paper (which he still has today), titled simply Wildlife Photography, earned him an "A" for the project. Still, more importantly, the mini-tome served as a manifesto of sorts that would define his life's work.

When he was 19, he had his first photographs and article published in a magazine. When he was 20, he earned his first magazine cover. By his own admission, the work now appears marginal and sophomoric. It was the spark, however, that ignited the fire to keep him going and perfect his creative craft.

Upon leaving a career in teaching, Russell continued his life's work by capturing the people and places outside of city limits in innovative and authentic ways. In the ensuing years, he continued to build on his experience and churn out content for clients through magazine pieces, advertising campaigns, television projects, and numerous books. In addition, he also worked with a small West Texas town to help them develop a marketing strategy and put together development deals that would bring jobs and prosperity to that little corner of rural Texas. 

Russell came to Backcountry Journeys in the fall of 2017 as a guest. He met owners Russ and Crystal Nordstrand as they were the leaders for the Katmai Bears trip. A few months later, Russ asked Russell if he wanted to guide trips. Since then, Russell has led nearly 500 guests on adventures worldwide. 

Russell says he feels like he's come full circle by combining his love of photography with his teaching ability.

In the media, Russell's been called a rural renaissance man, recognized as one of the top photographers in Texas, and praised by editors, art directors, and audiences alike for his ability to connect people and places through his written, spoken, and photographic stories. He's had nearly a million words published, authored six books, has had thousands of images grace the pages of magazines and advertisements all over the world (including about 600 magazine covers), is an in-demand speaker, has photographed some of the most prominent people in our country, and is the owner of two businesses. Still, he insists that his most significant accomplishments fall under the heading of father, husband, brother, son, and friend. 

When he's not in the field teaching or doing projects for one of his clients, Russell is found on his beloved Hackberry Farm driving his tractor and doing tasks that benefit the land and her denizens therein. He now lives a mile from the small stock farm on which he was raised. Black dirt and creek water are a powerful poultice. 

His parents are still proud of him

You can see Russell’s work and portfolio on his webpage at www.russellgraves.com

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All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLCs - Copyright 2024
BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations include Yosemite, Alaska, Yellowstone, Glacier National Park, Hawaii, Utah as well as Botswana & Costa Rica."
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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