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Trip Report: Botswana: Land of Giants - Trip Report 2022
Published September 2, 2022
Of the great human pilgrimages around our planet, there are many. Muslims must travel to Mecca in Saudi Arabia, Buddhists travel to Lumbini in Nepal, Catholics to the Vatican, and as wildlife photographers, we must go to Africa. It is the place where it all began, where apes first learned to walk upright, thus beginning the genesis of the human race. It is on this great continent that giants still roam, locked in their eternal struggle for survival in harsh and unforgiving landscapes. It is here where the dreams of wildlife photographers come true, blinked into reality in front of the camera lens as elephants shower themselves in mud, lions battle for supremacy, and the crimson sun sets every night revealing an endless sky illuminated
by stars so bright you’d swear you’d traveled through time into the realm of the primordial.
For many, it can take a lifetime to find their way to Africa. And for many of those, that visitation can turn into an obsession, a constant nagging at the back of your mind, calling you to return, to stand on the same muddy patch as the greatest array of wildlife our world holds. For me, this has been true for the past four years, ever since I returned to the US from my several months long stint in Uganda. And thanks to BCJ, the tantalizing promise of a return to Africa has loomed on the horizon ever since then. But with interruptions from the pandemic, the return was postponed again and again and again. Finally though, this year the damn broke and I found myself crunched into an economy plane seat for 15 hours, winging my way to Johannesburg to meet four passionate wildlife photographers to escort them into the heart of southern Africa.
For many, it can take a lifetime to find their way to Africa. And for many of those, that visitation can turn into an obsession, a constant nagging at the back of your mind, calling you to return, to stand on the same muddy patch as the greatest array of wildlife our world holds. For me, this has been true for the past four years, ever since I returned to the US from my several months long stint in Uganda. And thanks to BCJ, the tantalizing promise of a return to Africa has loomed on the horizon ever since then. But with interruptions from the pandemic, the return was postponed again and again and again. Finally though, this year the damn broke and I found myself crunched into an economy plane seat for 15 hours, winging my way to Johannesburg to meet four passionate wildlife photographers to escort them into the heart of southern Africa.
Of Africa’s famous destinations, like Tanzania, Kenya, Kruger National in South Arica, each has its merits (and its short comings). But for those wishing for an immersion into Africa’s wilderness, Botswana stands apart. One of the primary reasons for this is the country’s model for responsible ecotourism and the presences of immense private game reserves. For BCJ’s Land of Giants departure, we would be visiting one such reserve known as Mashatu. This reserve is comprised of nearly 90,000 acres (36,000 hectares) of unspoiled wilderness, and it connects to three other reserves, making a combined 172,000 acres (70,000 hectares)
From the moment our private plane touched down at Limpopo Valley Airfield, we were immersed in wilderness and wildlife. Just outside the airstrip, we encountered our first giraffe and impala, two species that are all over the reserve. From there, our experienced and entertaining safari driver Lekganyane Edward (we called him Eddie for short) drove us along the maze of dirt roads to the Mashatu Tent Camp, our home for the next week. Here, at the northern tip of the reserve, we began our daily safari drives that afternoon, exploring the seemingly endless expanse of dry mopani forest. One of the amazing things about traveling south of the equator during July is that it is winter down there. In an environment with temperatures capable of reaching well over 110 degrees Fahrenheit (43 celsius) in the summer, Botswana in the winter months is cool and dry. Mornings were spent with wool blankets and hot water bottles (known as bush babies in the safari world) on our laps and cameras clutched and
nearly constantly clicking, as new species were found around each curve.
Each day, we would make two safari drives, one in the morning and one in the evening. And on each drive, we encountered the giants that Africa is famous for, from grumpy elephants, to courting ostrich, snoozing lions, and leopards devouring impala in the tree tops. To cover each day’s sightings in this article would require the length of a small book. But there are two experiences that stood out to me that I’d love to share with you.
Each day, we would make two safari drives, one in the morning and one in the evening. And on each drive, we encountered the giants that Africa is famous for, from grumpy elephants, to courting ostrich, snoozing lions, and leopards devouring impala in the tree tops. To cover each day’s sightings in this article would require the length of a small book. But there are two experiences that stood out to me that I’d love to share with you.
The first is the elephant hide that sits a few kilometers from Tent Camp. Here, over ten years ago, managers of the reserve created an artificial waterhole by digging a bore hole and pumping water to the surface. On the north side of this man-made spring, they partially submerged a shipping container, cut windows in its walls at ground level, thus creating an oasis in the middle of the desert and a vantage point to see and photograph wildlife up close and from a low angle. We would spend two sessions here, one in the morning and another in the afternoon. On a windless day, the surface of the water makes a perfect reflecting pool, making for some truly dramatic photography. On our first evening there, the waterhole was visited by impala, greater kudu, warthogs, and guinea fowl. And, just as the last light was disappearing from the sky, I saw a dark face peering through a window at the side of the container. A lone spotted hyena had decided to come down for a late evening drink. He was curious about the strange creatures sitting inside the container, but after long, he was drinking and bathing in comfort of the calm waters.
The following morning, we were back in the hide. The early morning light proved just as soft and warm as the evening, and this morning Arica’s true giants would be paying us a visit. It was after an hour or so in the hide that the first group of elephants approached the waterhole. Completely unperturbed by our presence, the elephants numbered at least thirty, and began slurping up water with relish. Others sprayed themselves in muddy water, making for some dramatic action shots as they covered every inch of their bodies in “elephant sunscreen.” Before long, the chaos subsided as the herd moved on, seeking out fresh forage. But within minutes, a second group arrived, and exploded onto the waterhole with as much fervor as the first group. The photographs of these two elephant groups would prove to be some of my
favorites for their unique point of view and the ability to photograph wildlife with a wide angle lens.
The other experience I’d like to share was actually two experiences with the same group of lion cubs. This group of five cubs I’ve taken to calling “the posers,” for their uncanny ability to
The other experience I’d like to share was actually two experiences with the same group of lion cubs. This group of five cubs I’ve taken to calling “the posers,” for their uncanny ability to
assemble themselves in perfect photographic poses.
For our first encounter with these cubs, we found them lounging on a log with the lionesses lying on the ground several yards away. It was beyond idyllic, with the cubs perched atop the log with dried grasses filling the background. Here, they played and explored the log, making for
For our first encounter with these cubs, we found them lounging on a log with the lionesses lying on the ground several yards away. It was beyond idyllic, with the cubs perched atop the log with dried grasses filling the background. Here, they played and explored the log, making for
one perfect setup after the other.
The second time we came upon this lion pride, the cubs were playing on the edge of a dry river as the two mothers rested in the river bed. At first, the cubs were largely obstructed by branches. But the open top safari vehicle full of strange creatures proved too curious a sight for them to ignore. And so, the little cubs all descended into the river bank in a little procession, a perfect lineup of adorable little murderers-to-be.
The second time we came upon this lion pride, the cubs were playing on the edge of a dry river as the two mothers rested in the river bed. At first, the cubs were largely obstructed by branches. But the open top safari vehicle full of strange creatures proved too curious a sight for them to ignore. And so, the little cubs all descended into the river bank in a little procession, a perfect lineup of adorable little murderers-to-be.
There were countless moments like these, when animals lined up with the perfect background and in immaculate lighting, making for a photographic smorgasbord that lasted for the entire
week.
For those wishing to see and photograph Africa’s wildlife, few places can compare to the perfection of Mashatu in Botswana. It is a place that I hope to visit again and again, to share this magical place with nature lovers and wildlife photographers as passionate about the natural world as I am. For I know, deep in the heart of every wildlife enthusiast, the call of Africa rings loud. Like other pilgrims, we all must find our way there, even if it takes the better part of our lifetime, we must answer the call back to our homeland. And for those wishing to move amongst Africa’s giants, it’s gargantuan elephants, its ferocious big cats, there is no place more exciting than Botswana.
For those wishing to see and photograph Africa’s wildlife, few places can compare to the perfection of Mashatu in Botswana. It is a place that I hope to visit again and again, to share this magical place with nature lovers and wildlife photographers as passionate about the natural world as I am. For I know, deep in the heart of every wildlife enthusiast, the call of Africa rings loud. Like other pilgrims, we all must find our way there, even if it takes the better part of our lifetime, we must answer the call back to our homeland. And for those wishing to move amongst Africa’s giants, it’s gargantuan elephants, its ferocious big cats, there is no place more exciting than Botswana.
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Each tour is bundled with lodging, meals, and transportation between workshops included, allowing you to focus on photography instead of the stress of traveling.
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Each tour is bundled with lodging, meals, and transportation between workshops included, allowing you to focus on photography instead of the stress of traveling.
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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
- Russ Nordstrand, Backcountry Journeys Founder & Director
- Russ Nordstrand, Backcountry Journeys Founder & Director
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All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLCs - Copyright 2025
BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2025
TRIP CATALOG
Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.