Welcome to our first ever Bull Moose Workshop: Winter Wildlife of Grand Teton with Backcountry Journeys. A five day expedition into Jackson Hole where we photographed moose and other animals in both Grand Teton National Park and the National Elk Refuge. If you love photographing animals, then this wildlife-focused photography tour is right for you! The following is the combined trip report for the two tours held on November 13-17 and November 18-22, 2022. As with any Backcountry Journey’s tour, the fun began with orientation at the Lexington Hotel followed by a tasty dinner. After a night of rest, we departed by 7:00 am the following morning to begin our moose hunt! This was our schedule for all four mornings of the tour. Snow filled the valley and covered the towering mountains. Some mornings presented us with dense fog while others had clear skies and sunshine. It was a winter wonderland in Jackson Hole!
Each day we went out, the temperatures were below zero. Gripping the aluminum tripod and handling cold gear without the appropriate gloves would result in numbness and a decrease in the motor ability of your fingers. Luckily for the crew, hand warmers helped aid the flow of blood during those freezing mornings. Hours were spent outside photographing the large cervids. Appropriate winter gear is a must if you want to photograph in style without the risk of hypothermia. Considering Jackson, Wyoming, was a mountain town, there were plenty of opportunities to purchase extra layers if needed.
For some, the idea of spending hours standing in the snow in sub-zero temperatures early in the morning sounds like a trip down misery road. However, that is one of the best times to photograph moose because that’s when the large herbivores are covered in frost and actively eating. Moose have dense fur that keeps them warm in temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit. So unless there is a huge blizzard with no visibility, you are expected to be rolling around in the snow capturing epic moose shots while making lovely snow ravens.
Each morning was a repeat of the previous one. Entering the park, we drove down Gros Ventre road in search of bull moose. Each day brought new opportunities. Some mornings provided us with only a single bull, while others gifted us with a herd of moose! Occasionally the moose were seen foraging right along the road. However, most of the time, we had to take a small walk through the sagebrush to maximize our photography opportunities. When it comes to wildlife photography, repetition is the key because animals move and their behavior changes each day. For example, one day you may get a couple of moose displaying courtship, while on another day two bulls can be observed sparring. You never know what surprises are in store until you are out there with the animals living and breathing beneath the mountain air.
We often spent two to three hours photographing them until they decided to wander off into the cottonwood trees or bed down in the snow. Oftentimes, when moose bed down, they begin chewing cud, so by the time this behavior occurs, they are done foraging for a while. This usually happens around 10:00 am, in which case we either search for more animals or travel back into town for a nice, warm brunch. Most of the time, folks were satisfied with their shots and voted for a big, sit-down breakfast with warm drinks. This happy gathering was conducted at my favorite breakfast restaurant in Jackson - The Bunnery! Yum!
The afternoon and evening expeditions vary each day. Following a tasty brunch, we visited the National Elk Refuge to photograph bighorn sheep. During the autumn as weeks passed and snow accumulated on the mountains, the bighorn sheep would migrate down into the refuge. The peak of their rut is from November to December. A time of year when you can see rams butting heads and fighting over a herd of ewes. November is also during the time of the elk migration when hundreds of elk would travel nearly 60 miles down into the National Elk Refuge to overwinter. By mid-winter, thousands of elk make the refuge their winter home. North America’s largest species of waterfowl, trumpeter swans, also migrate to the refuge for the winter. Just outside of Jackson, Wyoming, swans can be seen swimming in the islands of water among the frozen wetland. While bird watching, coyotes often made an appearance, leaving their tracks on the ice while stalking ducks and scavenging for food.
The next day after photographing sheep and swans, we traveled north toward Colter Bay in search of foxes and other wildlife. Traveling north past Snake River Overlook, the surrounding trees turned into small willows and sagebrush. Towering, snow-covered mountains reached up into the blue sky. Two bull bison grazed on the vegetation, using their large heads to sweep away snow. Bison in the foreground, Tetons in the background, and a beautiful day in paradise. It is a wonderful opportunity to stretch those legs and bask in the glory of the glistening landscape. But wait! There’s more! Just a few miles down the road was a herd of bison! Cows, calves, and bulls were seen foraging in the snow, jumping fences, crossing the road, and prancing around the open landscape.
Further north was Oxbow Bend. A stretch of the Snake River known for its iconic shot of distant mountains reflecting on the water, surrounded by yellow aspens during the autumn mornings. However, during the winter, the scenery is a bit more frozen. Occasionally, you can get lucky and see otters using pockets in the thin ice as entry ports into the water. We never did see any otters but we did see a couple of beavers standing on the ice, off in the distance.
Circling around Colter Bay, ravens were the only wildlife visible to us. By this time, the sun was beginning to set beyond the mountains, so we took this moment to be present, capture some landscape shots, and enjoy the tranquility of the winter wilderness. Even though foxes weren’t anywhere in sight, we did eventually strike gold during one of our evening moose hunts with a gorgeous red fox. The beautiful and curious animal wasn’t shy about posing for a few portrait shots. The encounter with the fox turned out to be one of the best parts of the tour.
On the final evening of the tour, we once again traveled down Gros Ventre Road. We photographed a small group of moose in the evening light. The rays of light lit up their brown fur and sparkled in their eyes. Pastel pinks colored the eastern sky. Grand Teton National Park did not disappoint. It is one of the few places where you can actually see multiple moose congregating in a small herd. It was a rewarding week full of snow and wildlife. An expedition that brought joy and amazing photos. After our final morning of saying our goodbyes to the moose, we parted ways and concluded the Bull Moose Workshop.