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Trip Report: Northern Exposures: Wind, Sea & Byways of Alaska – March/April 2022

by Russell Graves
It’s on the travel list for many: Alaska. Its name is mythical and conjures up untold adventures in a place as mysterious as it is immense. No matter how often you go there, it is impossible to see all of it. I think that’s part of the allure, though. 
Alaska is big and full of wildlife, mountains, taiga, beautiful water, and photographic opportunities. It’s a place that holds the promise of a memorable photograph everywhere you look. Even if you’ve been to Alaska before, the state holds something new in store for you every time you go. You see a landscape in a way you haven’t seen before, or you experience the culture of the 49th state in a fresh and exciting way. Either way, you are beckoned for more.  
That’s the way I see Alaska. I love her for what’s familiar and yearn to know more about what I have yet to see. It’s a tug that keeps me motivated to head there whenever I can.

Northern Lights
I’ve seen the aurora dozens of times. In fact, on the twenty-something days, I’ve sought the aurora borealis, there’s only been a pair of nights where they haven’t appeared. A thick overcast of clouds made seeing them impossible. While there is a scientific explanation for why they appear in the northern skies, I still find it hard to wrap my mind around the mysterious phantoms. They are utterly otherworldly and since no two displays are identical, straying afield is always a worthwhile endeavor.


Seeing the Northern Lights and sharing them with others is a delight. On this trip, we spend the first three nights searching for them. While days are spent seeing the sights around Fairbanks and experiencing the local culture and fare, the nights are spent heading out to logical places where we may catch a glimpse of them. A combination of cloud cover forecasts, general weather observations, and the auroral activity index (Kp scale) guides our decisions. 

The first night we caught a glimpse of the aurora. A weak Kp index coupled with a scum of late-arriving clouds hammered our efforts, but it did give us a chance to hone in on the skills needed for shooting nice photos of the aurora. Night two found us south of Fairbanks at a remote cabin. The conversation was lively and lessons in three-point lighting and light painting helped balance the night while we armed ourselves by the fire, snacked on s’mores, and waited…
On the third night, the skies exploded with color and movement. Overlooking a frozen lakebed north of Fairbanks, we watched as the skies came alive right at dusk. For the next five hours, the skies were alive with the aurora caused by the sun’s coronal burst a few days beforehand. To say the night was remarkable seems like an understatement.

Talkeetna
Waking up the next day, it’s hard to leave such a fantastic spot with the night’s memories still fresh on everyone’s minds. Undaunted, we head south across the state for our next destination – the quirky burgh of Talkeetna and the Denali Overlook Lodge. It’s a long drive there, but we stop and photograph roadside landscapes along the way, see a lynx and ptarmigans, and discuss both the history and contemporary lore of the state’s midsection. 

Once at our edge, we don’t have to travel far. We have dinner and photograph the Denali Range from the deck of our lodge. From here, a creek is slowly coming back to life from a frozen winter’s slumber and trickles past us. Across the broad valley, the entire Alaska Mountain range is before us. Near the center, Denali stands sentinel. While most of the mountain is visible, the summit is shrouded in clouds – a predicament that continues for the next two days we’re here. 

However, the next day we take to the air and can see the summit in a way that most never do. Boarding a Dehavilland bear airplane, we ascend from the Talkeetna airstrip and head north towards the mountains. The pilot knows we’re a photography group and takes the scenic route on the way up the Ruth Glacier. We’re at an untold altitude when the clouds part and the summit is visible. As surreal as it sounds, here we are floating on the aerodynamic forces of airflow and lift as we traverse the top of North America. It is an experience to behold. 
Our landing on the Ruth Glacier is uneventful as landings should be and we deboard the plane and explore a tiny part of the mountain bowl. It feels like we are a thousand miles from nowhere.
Departure from the glacier is predictable but bittersweet, and soon, we’re back on the ground in Talkeetna. The nearby town is too quirky to ignore, so we explore the town’s shops and restaurants before an evening shoot and some well-earned rest back at the lodge.

Alyeska Glaciers and Wildlife
Heading further on our trip, we run through Anchorage south towards Homer. Our night is spent at the Alyeska Ski Resort in Girdwood. Still, we explore the immediate area by photographing the portage glacier, the Chugach Mountains, and the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet.  


Along the Turnagain Arm, we see Dall sheep in the mountains and stop to photograph them standing on what looks to be impossible footholds. Regarding native Alaska wildlife, we stop over at the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center to see caribou, musk ox, black bears, grizzlies, and wolves. 
We only have a day in the area, so from here, we’re off to Homer for a night. From here, we’ll spend the last of our trip across the bay and in a place that’s truly off the beaten path.

Seldovia
Why I waited so long in my life to go to Seldovia, I’ll never know. I am glad I got there, however. Seldovia is a small seaside Alaskan town that you can only access via plane or boat. It’s a quiet little settlement, but its reputation as a fishing village maintains its charm for the benefit of the tourists who come here each year. We are outside the chief tourist season on our trip, and the town is quiet. It’s a silent solitude you’ll experience as the sun goes down on the harbor and the night envelops the town and the surrounding water and mountains.


From here, we launch in a boat and explore the waters and wildlife of Seldovia and Katchmak Bays. At any given time, bald eagles soar overhead while sea otters flit and play in the emerald water that is a mix of glacial meltwater mixed with salt water from the ocean. Here, we ride along the ragged edge where freshwater and saltwater combine to create the perfect ingredients that provide exquisite habitat for wildlife.  
Day after day, we photograph sea ducks, eagles, mink, otters, and wading birds like black oystercatchers in a setting that is so quiet, so private, and so pristine. Our day photographing is matched by exquisite hospitality and meals at the Seldovia Boardwalk Inn. Even though the town is empty, walks around the streets and on the boardwalk provide a nice respite from the boats, vans, and planes we’ve been traveling. The walks yield each trip member some memorable images that help round out their Alaskan portfolio. 

Like any trip, the last day is like the last day of summer camp. It’s bittersweet and celebratory as everyone is ready to go home. Still, no one’s really prepared for the trip to conclude. On the boat ride back to Homer and eventually to the airport, we’re treated to an otter dining on crabs, and a bald eagle fly by. In the end, it’s a fitting way to close this adventure.  
Alaska wouldn’t have it any other way. 

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 AUTHOR 

Raised in rural Texas, Russell is the product of a modest, blue-collar upbringing, a stalwart work ethic, and a family who put no bounds on his imagination and creativity. When Russell was a junior in high school, he wrote a research paper for his end-of-year English project. The research paper (which he still has today), titled simply Wildlife Photography, earned him an "A" for the project. Still, more importantly, the mini-tome served as a manifesto of sorts that would define his life's work.

When he was 19, he had his first photographs and article published in a magazine. When he was 20, he earned his first magazine cover. By his own admission, the work now appears marginal and sophomoric. It was the spark, however, that ignited the fire to keep him going and perfect his creative craft.

Upon leaving a career in teaching, Russell continued his life's work by capturing the people and places outside of city limits in innovative and authentic ways. In the ensuing years, he continued to build on his experience and churn out content for clients through magazine pieces, advertising campaigns, television projects, and numerous books. In addition, he also worked with a small West Texas town to help them develop a marketing strategy and put together development deals that would bring jobs and prosperity to that little corner of rural Texas. 

Russell came to Backcountry Journeys in the fall of 2017 as a guest. He met owners Russ and Crystal Nordstrand as they were the leaders for the Katmai Bears trip. A few months later, Russ asked Russell if he wanted to guide trips. Since then, Russell has led nearly 500 guests on adventures worldwide. 

Russell says he feels like he's come full circle by combining his love of photography with his teaching ability.

In the media, Russell's been called a rural renaissance man, recognized as one of the top photographers in Texas, and praised by editors, art directors, and audiences alike for his ability to connect people and places through his written, spoken, and photographic stories. He's had nearly a million words published, authored six books, has had thousands of images grace the pages of magazines and advertisements all over the world (including about 600 magazine covers), is an in-demand speaker, has photographed some of the most prominent people in our country, and is the owner of two businesses. Still, he insists that his most significant accomplishments fall under the heading of father, husband, brother, son, and friend. 

When he's not in the field teaching or doing projects for one of his clients, Russell is found on his beloved Hackberry Farm driving his tractor and doing tasks that benefit the land and her denizens therein. He now lives a mile from the small stock farm on which he was raised. Black dirt and creek water are a powerful poultice. 

His parents are still proud of him

You can see Russell’s work and portfolio on his webpage at www.russellgraves.com

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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.

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BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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