The group swung their packs on over their jackets and flipped on their headlamps. The beams of light caught the condensation suspended in the air of each exhale on this chilly morning. It was a little over a mile hike into Dream Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park, but in order to capture the dramatic light of sunrise, that meant an Alpine Start and making the entire hike in the cover of darkness. Despite this early start, the group took on this challenge with enthusiasm and vigor. The sense of adventure was certainly apparent as the group started up the dark trail and into unknown territory.
RMNP was established in 1915 as a National Park and encompasses 414 square miles of the southern Rockies. The Rockies, as we know them today were formed mainly by glaciation, which is evident by the numerous, broad U-shaped valleys in the Park, with further evidence of the ancient glaciers with the prominent moraine features lining these valleys. This glacier carving coupled with uplifts from an ancient tectonic plate off the coast of modern-day California formed the Rocky Mountains we enjoy today.
RMNP offers a unique photographic experience during the early Fall. The landscapes are stunning with the foliage beginning to show off their vibrant colors and the large elk herds gather in the lush valleys during the rut, which affords tremendous opportunities to obtain images of these amazing ungulates displaying a variety of behaviors not seen at any other time of the year. So our objective was clear, but not easily obtained. It was going to take some strategic planning to photograph both subjects at peak times, the group was excited to give it a go.
We broke up the trip not only in subject matter, but also by area. Despite meeting in Estes Park, on the East side of the Park and starting the trip there, we photographed the sunrise at Sprague Lake as well as the elk herd in Moraine Park, before heading over to the West side of the Park, and the town of Grand Lake. This side of the Park is a bit less crowded and much easier to navigate through the Park. This also the area that also experienced some heavy fire damage from the mega East Troublesome Fire that incinerated almost 195,000 acres in 2020. It’s amazing to see the recovery process of the forest from this fire but there are still many reminders of just how destructive this fire event was.
While visiting the West side of the Park we hiked to beautiful meadows to shoot sunsets on the East Inlet Trail walked along the babbling waters that form the mighty Colorado River, perused the Kawuneeche Valley for elk and other wildlife, shot the sunrise as it lit up the Never Summer Mountains, and hiked the fire scared North Inlet Trail to capture wildflowers, detailed images, and abstracts of this very different landscape. We also shared laughs and built camaraderie and enjoyed great meals together that are such a signature to so many BCJ experiences.
One could feel the excitement of the group, as if an electrical storm was approaching. A guest was given a radio as I ran “sweep” in the back of the group and being with those that required a bit more time to make the uphill trek. We would check in every so often and some delight was heard through the crackling radio that they had made it to the lake. I was certain that they had arrived at Nymph Lake and not our desired spot, Dream Lake. Their description of the lake confirmed my inclination, “Keep going” I replied” you still have a bit further to go.” The race was on to catch the first light at Dream Lake.
Our second half of the trip we spent over on the East side of the Park, but not before catching a dramatic sunrise at the top of Trail Ridge Road and the Alpine Ridge Trail Head. We photographed at various pullouts as we watched fast moving clouds dance across the ridge tops, photographed Pika, waterfalls and looked for moose as we looped around on the Old River Road and back up to the Alpine Visitor Center. Next up, however was the big hike day and the group certainly seemed pumped for it!
As the first Group arrived at Dream Lake we were only a few minutes from first light. I was starting to have some doubts that the folks still hiking would not make it in time, however I was pleasantly mistaken, and we arrived just in time to set up our cameras and be ready to capture Dream Lake at sunrise. A group of clouds had blanketed the top of Hallett Peak, the majestic backdrop for the lake, in a misty shroud. The scene was moody and capricious as we captured the moment. I turned my back on the scene to assist a guest move her camera to a different location and for a different composition and at that moment things changed. A sliver of light came streaming in to light up a portion of Hallett Peak. We watched this exquisite light show and quickly captured the scene, as it only lasted for maybe 45 seconds and then, it was gone. We celebrated with hoots and high fives after witnessing such a magnificent display of light. Our Alpine Start had paid its dividends.
As fantastic as this morning at Dream Lake was, we had some other objectives in our sights. A rockslide, earlier in the Summer, into Lake Haiyaha had turned the lake’s color into a milky turquoise, much like a glacier silted stream or lake. Despite the added 4+ miles, the group seemed thrilled to continue up to what turned out to be an exquisite lake. Our efforts were rewarded with a magnificent visual experience. The blue-green waters of the lake were almost mesmerizing and offered up some dramatic images.
On our way back down to the trailhead, we detoured to Emerald Lake. Emerald, a magnificent lake that is directly at the base of Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain and sits just above 10,000ft above sea level, and despite being a bit crowded, was an impressive view. We finally headed back down to the trail head by Bear Lake for lunch, after an 8-mile hiking morning, the group was ready to eat! After lunch a few of the group members were excited to hike to Alberta Falls, which was about a mile away. Part of the group rested by the van while the rest of the guests and I made the trek to the falls. A 10+ mile day in the books, was rewarding and satisfying for certain. The group finished up the day with a sunset shoot at Bear Lake. Weather was starting to move in, so the anticipation of a dramatic sunset was high. The sky seemed to want to explode with color, but just fell a little short. We finished the day with a fantastic closing dinner at a quaint little Bistro in Estes Park.
Our final morning was spent at a lovely spot in Horseshoe Meadow and one last stop in Moraine Park to capture the large elk herd we had seen there all week and supplied us with so many wonderful images. After a late breakfast we said our good byes, or what we determined should be “see you later‘s”. Our memory cards full of wonderful images and our hearts and minds full of lifelong memories.
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