The morning was dark and cool in the predawn hour. I shuffled from my tent, if the large and luxurious structure could even qualify as such, wrapped in warm layers and rubbing the sleep from my eyes. The night before had been interrupted multiple times by the sounds of cape buffalo grazing just on the other side of the canvas. Only footprints and droppings now marked where the buffalo had been a few hours prior. And now, a different sound pierced the morning calm. The roar of a male lion carried across the still waters of the Okavango Delta unimpeded, making it sound as if Africa’s top predator was only a few yards away. I made my way to our safari vehicle, my head torch dashing around the brush, checking for any glowing eyes looking back at me. But the bush was silent aside from the lion’s roar.
We loaded up quickly, anxious to begin our search for the serenading lion, which sounded tantalizingly close. The delta was in full flood this time of year, and our drives were often spent in the water as much as on muddy ground. And it seemed to us and Piet, our safari guide and driver, that the lion was calling from just the other side of a deep channel. Our first crossing attempt proved futile, as the water quickly crested over the hood of the sup’d up Toyota Land Rover. It was outfitted with massive tires and a snorkel for its air intake, but crossing there would’ve meant bathing in the cool Okavango waters. We backed out, and headed along the channel, surveying the water for a ford shallow enough to cross.
A row of lilies and grasses marked shallow water just around a bend. Our driver dropped the truck into 4x4, and we began the crossing. I sat in the front seat, lower down than the higher rear seats where a group of BCJ regulars sat. I’d learned from prior drives I’d need to have my waterproof boots on to sit up front, and so I was ready when the water began to pour in through the door crack and flood around my feet. I held my cameras high, and soon the Land Rover began to climb the opposite bank, emerging from the water wrapped in aquatic plants like a giant green swamp monster.
I popped my door open, allowing the water to spill out. Piet put the truck in gear, and pointed it straight at the sound of the lion. Row after row of small mopani trees didn’t concern him as he smashed over them, one after another. The lion definitely knew we were coming. We burst out of a brush line into a grass clearing, and the lion went silent. We were so close. We scanned the grasses, trying to see through the lion’s perfect camouflage. The eyes were what I saw first. The lion hid in the dry grasses, its yellow eyes peering at the strange creatures and their swamp monster carriage from only a few yards away.
This morning was much like all other twelve mornings that I spent with five amazing clients in one of Africa’s most exciting wildlife destinations. Our Ultimate Botswana departure is by far the most epic of BCJ trips. Spanning twelve days and three Botswana destinations, it is a trip that is as diverse as it is exciting.
For the first leg of the trip, we begin at Mashatu, a private game reserve that lies just north of the border with South Africa and just west of Zimbabwe. This semi-arid region, when visited during the dry months of June and July, is cool and dusty. But, the density of wildlife here is unlike anywhere I’ve ever seen. Of the big five, you can find elephant everywhere, lion, and leopard. Leopards are especially successful here. Over the span of my Land of Giants and Ultimate Botswana groups, I must have seen at least 12 leopards.
And it is also one of the most luxurious experiences you can have with BCJ. The lodges at Mashatu are immaculate and beautifully integrated with their wild surroundings. The hospitality you will encounter here is unparalleled.
Visitors to Mashatu can expect to spend almost eight hours a day photographing, with morning and evening game drives punctuated by at least two astro photography sessions. The nights are very dark, making it an excellent location to photograph the milky way set against the otherworldly forms of the Baobab trees.
We spent four nights at Mashatu, and then from a small airport at Limpopo Valley, we boarded a private plane to a remote bit of runway in the middle of the Okavango Delta. For all the reasons to be excited about visiting Botswana, and there are many, the delta is the one that I was most intrigued by.
Here, rain water from the Angola highlands converge into the Cubango and Cuito Rivers. Over the next three months, the rivers flow south before dumping their waters into an enormous inland delta, the Okavango. The result is that the delta floods during the peak of the dry season, making it into a venerable garden of eden.
Surrounded on all sides by the Kalahari Desert, the delta erupts into a water world, where mazes of islands and channels create a haven for Africa’s most iconic animals. Hippos and elephants are the architects of this watery plane, as they push through high grasses and papyrus, creating new channels for the ever rising water.
With the new water flows, so go the fish, followed by an array of fish-eating birds. Zebra, giraffe, buffalo, and multiple antelope species can be readily found here, as well as their predators. Lions and leopards must learn to live a semiaquatic lifestyle in the delta, for there is no path anywhere that does not lie under water at least some point during the year.
Safari drives here are also semi-aquatic, and the vehicles are equipped accordingly, with big tires and snorkels. It was here, during our last morning on the delta, that we witnessed an incredible wildlife spectacle.
During the night, a lone lioness had killed a young tsessebe (pronounced tes-e-bay) a type of antelope. Already, scavenger birds perched in the trees, awaiting their turn at the carcass. It looked like the lioness had already consumed about half of the antelope when the first hyena arrived. It first approached alone and was almost immediately attacked by the lioness in a cloud of dust and claws.
This apparently only irritated the hyena, an animal known for its toughness. The hyena began to let out a deep bellow, a call for reinforcements. Soon, three other hyenas had arrived, and then another two. They now numbered six, and they began to approach and harass the lioness. She growled and bluff charged, but the hyenas persisted.
Finally, she leapt from the kill, catching one of the hyenas under her claws. But, the balance of power had shifted, and as soon as she let the hyena up, the lioness bolted with two hyenas in full pursuit. The other hyenas ripped the carcass from underneath the brush and began devouring it. A moment later, the two pursuit hyenas had returned and joined the frenzy. This is the magic of the Delta. You truly never know what you will encounter on any given game drive.
Our final destination in Botswana was the Chobe River. Unlike Mashatu and the Delta, Chobe is a national park, famous for its huge populations of elephant, crocodile, hippo, and cape buffalo. During the dry season, the river level subsides and islands are exposed in the river channels. Here, you can find an array of large and small wildlife, including several species of bird, like the yellow billed stork, African fish eagle, and little bee eaters.
Our safaris at Chobe were by far the most comfortable, as they were done by specially outfitted photo safari boats, complete with 360 degree swiveling chairs and camera gimbals. From the comfort of our boat, we could safely approach giant Nile crocodiles and hippos, elephants and antelope at incredibly close ranges. This made for some of the most intriguing photography throughout the trip.
Our time at Chobe also included one safari drive through the national park. Though I preferred the point of view offered from the safari boat, this drive concluded with one of the more memorable lion encounters of the trip.
It was just past sunset. We had already stopped to have our sundowners, an African safari tradition of stopping and having drinks at the end of an evening game drive. There was only a low amount of light still at play during the blue hour drive. But, as we came up on a grassy meadow, I could clearly see the form of a large animal, blending perfectly with its grassy surroundings. It was a lioness, as still as if frozen, ears perked, listening for the sound of prey.
We approached in what most would consider impossible shooting conditions.
The lioness began to move, and we noticed that she was not alone. There were two others, working together on the hunt to triangulate the location of some unseen prey.
The light was so low, but the lions stood still enough to try. Cranking the shutter speed down to a paltry 1/10 of a second and bracing my camera on the vehicle railing, I began squeezing off shots. Then the lion began to stalk. I did my best to mirror her pace, shutter going all the time. These “shutter dragged” shots would prove to be my favorite lion photos I took on the trip.
Though this technique takes practice and a lot of failure to master, it is one I always teach my clients on wildlife trips. The presence of motion blur does so much to convey movement and life in an image.
After twelve days of safaris, I was ready to do some hiking. And lucky for me, and four of our amazing clients, that is exactly what we would be doing next. We would be heading to Rwanda to hike to volcanos to find the mountain gorillas.
But this epic Ultimate Botswana trip had come to an end. And it was one of the most incredible wildlife experiences of my life. Nowhere I’ve been can compare to the density of megafauna as can be seen in Botswana.
If you read my last trip report from Botswana Land of Giants, you’ll know that I consider Africa to be the Mecca for wildlife photographers. It is a place we are drawn to, a place we must see at least once in our lifetimes. And that one time will surely lead to plans for a second.
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