Have you ever sat in front of the computer, staring out the window, wishing for an adventure? If so, then you are hearing the call of the wild. Listen carefully. What does it say? If the wild is telling you to visit the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, then what are you waiting for? Pack your bags, grab your cameras, and let’s go on an adventure!
If you are still debating on whether or not Yellowstone is your destination, then this trip report may help bring clarity to that call of the wild. On behalf of Backcountry Journeys, this is a combined trip report for both the Hiker (September 18 - 25) and Standard (September 26- October 3) Yellowstone & Grand Teton in Autumn tours.
During our previous adventure into Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks this past May, we encountered a lot of rain and snow. Following all that precipitation was a drastic rise in water level, resulting in numerous floods that devoured roads and infrastructures within and outside of Yellowstone National Park.
Homes were lost, people became stranded, and bridges washed away. As a result, alterations had to be made for the autumn tours. Luckily, we were still able to maximize our time in both parks.
After our orientation, we departed for Yellowstone the following morning. Normally, we would drive from Bozeman, Montana into Gardiner where we would enter Yellowstone through the Northwestern entrance. However, because of the flood damage, we were forced to go through the Gallatin Mountains toward West Yellowstone, MT.
It was a beautiful, scenic drive following the Gallatin River south on Highway 191. The road weaved through the canyon and the evergreen forests while passing through Big Sky, MT.
Entering the park through the West Entrance, we drove north through the rim of the caldera toward Norris Geyser Basin. It is one of the largest geyser basins in the park, with trails adding up to about three miles long. A few hours were spent walking the boardwalk, watching the geysers, and capturing panoramas of the colorful landscape.
Gibbon falls was our next destination. The lighting wasn’t perfect but it was a great opportunity to practice some motion blur with the water. After checking into our hotel, we had dinner in Firehole Canyon where we enjoyed the tranquility of the river and Firehole Falls.
The evening hours covered the river in shadows, providing a great opportunity to capture a dark, mystical image of the waterfall.
To conclude the day, we spent sunset at Fountain Paint Pots Geyser Basin. Being our first sunset on the tour, it was an opportunity to practice bracketing while trying to capture a sun star behind the erupting geysers.
An early rise led to a cold morning photographing bobby sock trees. These are dead trees, killed by thermal activity. The white base on their trunks is what gave them their name. After waiting patiently in the cold, all bundled up in layers, the sun began to rise and thick fog rolled in.
This wasn’t an opportunity to capture a glamorous sunrise, but instead, a moody, eerie landscape shot of the trees vanishing into the dense fog. Dead trees mixed in with some thick fog makes for a spooky scene. The only thing missing were a few folks dancing around a cauldron among the shadows of the dead forest.
After breakfast, we spent the day exploring more geyser basins. The hikers trekked up to Fairy Falls to photograph a tall waterfall, flowing over a cliff into a pool of water. Downed logs and burnt trees mark the remains of a past fire.
Trekking back through the dense pine trees, we hiked up to an overlook to capture an elevated view of the largest hot spring in the park, Grand Prismatic. Considering this excursion was specific for the Hiker tour, the standard tour spent their time walking the boardwalk around Grand Prismatic, capturing detailed shots of the colors flowing from the pool.
Old Faithful Geyser was our final stop that afternoon before completing the day along the Madison River, capturing a colorful sunset behind the distant mountains.
Standing on the platform of Artist Point, we waited patiently for the sun to rise, lighting up the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and the Lower Falls–a 300 foot waterfall within a canyon that is about 1,000 feet deep.
Fog climbed up the canyon wall near the waterfall. As time passed, the sun remained hidden behind the low cloud coverage. It wasn’t the epic shot I was hoping for but the canyon itself is always a gorgeous and iconic sight to see in the park.
The goal for today was to finish off in Grand Teton National Park. Driving south, bison scattered the landscape in Hayden Valley. A few individuals crossed the Yellowstone River. Considering it was nearing the end of their breeding season, we were lucky enough to see a few bulls fight with each other. They smashed into one another with their large heads, exerting their dominance by sparring with their horns. The short battle seemed to end in a draw.
Next we visited Mud Volcano Geyser Basin then continued south along Yellowstone Lake, the largest alpine lake in North America. During the drive, an elk caught my attention. Pulling over, we photographed a cow elk standing in the middle of a pond. Herself and a few others crossed the water before vanishing into the dense pine forest.
In Grand Teton National Park, we took a pit stop at Oxbow Bend. An iconic sight with glowing, yellow aspen trees, towering mountains, and beautiful reflections in the water. This was the sight for one of our morning shoots.
Early in the morning, fog lifted off the river. As the sun climbed higher into the sky, the mountains slowly revealed themselves behind cumulus clouds.
On a clear day, you can get a gorgeous, alpenglow sliding down the mountain as the sun rises higher into the sky. Unfortunately for us, that wasn’t the case due to cloudy and stormy weather. But that didn’t stop us from getting some lovely landscape shots.
During one of our sunrise attempts at Oxbow Bend, I noticed that the weather was too cloudy. So I drove the guests to the top of Signal Mountain. This was the first time I’ve ever taken guests to Signal Mountain for a sunrise shot.
Instead of facing the Teton Mountains to the west, we faced the sunrise over the Gros Ventre Mountains to the east. The morning landscape was stunning and there was basically no one else there. As a bonus, we also managed to photograph some mule deer foraging among the pine trees.
Instead of visiting Signal Mountain, the second group spent a morning at Schwabacher Landing. An iconic sight for photographers to capture the reflection of the mountains in a stream with yellow cottonwoods and aspen trees dotting the landscape with color.
It was a beautiful sight to photograph, but it was also crowded. I’ve noticed that its popularity has caused a lot of areas to become trampled and destroyed over time. It was disappointing to see how the area has changed over the past couple of years.
Nonetheless, it was still a great spot to photograph the mountains, but it was definitely one of those places that needs time to regenerate back to its natural state.
Another great thing to photograph in Grand Teton National Park are old, rustic barns. Many folks who visit the park want to capture a shot of the famous Moulton Barn, which is exactly what we did. However, there were a few other hidden jewels we visited as well.
Other than the Moulton Barn, Morman Row was also home to a few other old barns. In addition, hidden within the park are the Shane Cabins. These are old cabins that were once part of the movie Shane (1953). During a clear day, you can capture a photo of the cabins with the Tetons in the background. However, storm clouds definitely add a more dramatic feel to the image.
Finally, the Cunningham Cabins were the focus for one of our sunset shots. They were small cabins out in the open sage flats near a stand of willows. West of the cabins, across the open valley, were the towering Tetons with the sun setting behind their peaks.
When people think of Grand Teton National Park, they often imagine opportunities for landscape photography. But Grand Teton also offers rewarding wildlife opportunities as well.
Moose were seen foraging along Blacktail Butte and Sawmill Ponds. Female pronghorn browsed on the sagebrush while the bucks guarded the does from desperate intruders. An osprey was seen capturing a fish at Oxbow Bend while a black bear with a cub was found resting in a pine tree along the southern border of the park.
Returning back to Yellowstone, we checked into our lodges around West Yellowstone, Montana. Normally, we would spend two nights in Gardiner and visit Lamar Valley, but everything changed when the floods attacked. Lucky for us, we were still able to explore most of the northern range, but our drive was a bit longer than usual.
After an early morning drive, we photographed a sunset near Blacktail Plateau. As the sun began to rise, wolf howls welcomed our arrival. Shortly afterwards, we found the distant pack who were a part of the Rescue Creek Pack. They were too far off for any good shots, but it’s always rewarding to see wolves in Yellowstone.
Following our morning shoot, we explored Little America to capture more images of bison, pronghorn, and moose. We took a pit stop at Tower Falls before seeing elk and thermal features at Mammoth Hot Springs.
During an afternoon break in West Yellowstone, we visited the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center. A non-profit educational facility that houses wolves, grizzly bears, raptors, otters, and other native fauna.
To conclude our day, we returned to Mammoth Hot Springs to capture the elk rutting behavior. Large bulls defended their herds from other intruders.
Bugaling echoed among the trees in all directions. The setting sun silhouetted large males standing up on nearby ridges. The elk were awake, active, and putting on a show. It was a wonderful way to conclude our last full day of the trip.
As a final stop before departing for Bozeman, we spent the morning capturing the sunrise along the Madison River, concluding our eight-day, Yellowstone and Grand Teton photography tour. It was another week in a magical place, full of vast landscapes and various wildlife.
If you feel called to join us on another expedition into the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, then we look forward to meeting you on our next adventure.
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