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Trip Report: Birds & Wildlife of the Everglades - December 2022
Published February 3, 2023
Ten minutes on the road and I am already amazed. Scantly three months earlier, a hurricane-of-a-lifetime razed over the part of Southwest Florida directly over where I drive. Amazingly, if I didn’t know a hurricane recently hit here, I wouldn’t know a hurricane had hit here. Sure, a few roofs still have blue tarps over them and if you look close enough you’ll see some business signs damaged. For the most part, however, the people around here and the nature that surrounds them have endured.
Hurricane Ian did cause some modifications to our original plans. Since the eye wall of the immense storm churned directly over Sanibel Island, that part of the trip is postponed.
Sanibel Island is where the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge lies. The refuge, established in 1950, was named after the Pulitzer prize-winning editorial cartoonist and conservationist and is one of the premier birding destinations in the United States. Like the rest of Sanibel Island and nearby Fort Meyer Beach, the devastation was near absolute. While the mangroves of the wildlife refuge did what mangroves do and acted as a shock absorber against a churning storm surge, much of the human-built infrastructure inside the refuge was badly damaged. Things like roads and observation towers, and boardwalks succumbed to the intense winds and deluge of water that fell upon the place. As such, the refuge is closed indefinitely.
Hurricane Ian did cause some modifications to our original plans. Since the eye wall of the immense storm churned directly over Sanibel Island, that part of the trip is postponed.
Sanibel Island is where the Ding Darling National Wildlife Refuge lies. The refuge, established in 1950, was named after the Pulitzer prize-winning editorial cartoonist and conservationist and is one of the premier birding destinations in the United States. Like the rest of Sanibel Island and nearby Fort Meyer Beach, the devastation was near absolute. While the mangroves of the wildlife refuge did what mangroves do and acted as a shock absorber against a churning storm surge, much of the human-built infrastructure inside the refuge was badly damaged. Things like roads and observation towers, and boardwalks succumbed to the intense winds and deluge of water that fell upon the place. As such, the refuge is closed indefinitely.
On the first night, a new group convened for the first Everglades trip of the season. Orientation night is always valuable. As the group gets to know one another, we delve into educational topics about birds in flight and other items of photographic interest and I lay out the week's itinerary.
Cooperative learning is valuable, and on each trip, people always benefit from the experiences with each other. From the talk around the room, this is a group of experienced photographers.
While Ding Darling was our original destination, the CREW Rookery is a worthy alternative. According to their website, the CREW Land & Water Trust was established in 1989 as a nonprofit organization to coordinate the land acquisition, land management, and public use of the 60,000-acre Corkscrew Regional Ecosystem Watershed (CREW).
Within the rookery parcel, a twelve-mile trail system bisects the cypress swamps and gives us a glimpse of what Old Florida once was. Just outside the bustling subdivisions, quietness envelopes the land. As the sun rises behind a cloak of fog, the birds and the swamp come alive. Birds of all kinds, alligators, and the rare marsh rabbit, are all within feet of our cameras. The rookery is a wonderful alternative to our typical itinerary.
While Ding Darling was our original destination, the CREW Rookery is a worthy alternative. According to their website, the CREW Land & Water Trust was established in 1989 as a nonprofit organization to coordinate the land acquisition, land management, and public use of the 60,000-acre Corkscrew Regional Ecosystem Watershed (CREW).
Within the rookery parcel, a twelve-mile trail system bisects the cypress swamps and gives us a glimpse of what Old Florida once was. Just outside the bustling subdivisions, quietness envelopes the land. As the sun rises behind a cloak of fog, the birds and the swamp come alive. Birds of all kinds, alligators, and the rare marsh rabbit, are all within feet of our cameras. The rookery is a wonderful alternative to our typical itinerary.
Soon we are on the road to Marco Island where we'll lodge for the next couple of days. Marco Island is the epitome of seaside Florida: condos, beautiful homes, and a laid-back vibe for which Florida is known. It's also smattered with places left wild. So although the island is developed, it is also home to a surprising amount of wildlife like burrowing owls, bald eagles, and the endangered gopher tortoise.
After checking in to our lodging, we head over to Chokoloskee for the evening shoot. We've got a boat ride scheduled for the evening, so we get to the island early to explore.
First, we stop in at the marina. Here we find brown pelicans with little or no fear of people. It's a great place to practice the concepts of backgrounds and birds in flight - lessons we covered in the first night's orientation. From there we head over to our boat and prepare for an evening excursion.
Soon we are skimming across the skinny water, zig-zagging between the mangrove islands in search of the endemic wildlife that calls these estuaries home. As predicted, we see a myriad of subjects like ibis, little blue herons, and osprey.
Out on one of the keys, a huge flock of American White Pelicans rest on a spit of sand and watch us as we curiously float past. On the water, bird after bird watch us slip past, seemingly unconcerned with our intrusion into their waters.
First, we stop in at the marina. Here we find brown pelicans with little or no fear of people. It's a great place to practice the concepts of backgrounds and birds in flight - lessons we covered in the first night's orientation. From there we head over to our boat and prepare for an evening excursion.
Soon we are skimming across the skinny water, zig-zagging between the mangrove islands in search of the endemic wildlife that calls these estuaries home. As predicted, we see a myriad of subjects like ibis, little blue herons, and osprey.
Out on one of the keys, a huge flock of American White Pelicans rest on a spit of sand and watch us as we curiously float past. On the water, bird after bird watch us slip past, seemingly unconcerned with our intrusion into their waters.
On Tuesday morning we wake up to thick fog hanging over the coast. While the birds are still feeding in the marshlands, they are, predictably, harder to see. It’s foggy and views are limited but a few birds still stir on the 10,000 Islands Marsh Trail.
While this area is usually pretty good for bird photography, we end up heading back to Marco Island to photograph shorebirds on Tigertail lagoon. Here we see more and more species and add to our bird count in a habitat that supports birds like ruddy turnstone, sandpipers, and dunlin.
Before lunch (and while the light is still good) we search out burrowing owls and gopher tortoises to add to our list of species. Just before we jump on the boat for the evening shoot, we stop and get an intimate view of brown pelicans and photograph them in flight and loafing from mere feet away.
Like the night before, the boat ride is full of opportunities like white pelicans and osprey. The bonus, however, was a pod of dolphins that jumped in our wake as the boat crushed across the water.
While this area is usually pretty good for bird photography, we end up heading back to Marco Island to photograph shorebirds on Tigertail lagoon. Here we see more and more species and add to our bird count in a habitat that supports birds like ruddy turnstone, sandpipers, and dunlin.
Before lunch (and while the light is still good) we search out burrowing owls and gopher tortoises to add to our list of species. Just before we jump on the boat for the evening shoot, we stop and get an intimate view of brown pelicans and photograph them in flight and loafing from mere feet away.
Like the night before, the boat ride is full of opportunities like white pelicans and osprey. The bonus, however, was a pod of dolphins that jumped in our wake as the boat crushed across the water.
Day three starts with a morning boat ride around Marco Island where we see more shorebirds and another pod of dolphins and walk a glorious beach littered with a kaleidoscope of seashells.
Afterward, we head across the Tamiami Trail towards Florida City. Although the drive is some distance, we arrive in Homestead, Florida for lunch just after noon. We eat, check in to the hotel, and at about 2 pm, we head out for an evening shoot.
Our destination is the famous Anhinga Trail. Listed on the United States National Register of Historic Places, the trail is a must-see location in Everglades National Park. While the trail is short (less than half a mile long), the freshwater wetland is full of animals.
Along our hike, we see great blue herons, green herons, alligators, and a host of other avian species on the trail. While we visit, each guest explores the trail on their own as the area is target-rich.
Afterward, we head across the Tamiami Trail towards Florida City. Although the drive is some distance, we arrive in Homestead, Florida for lunch just after noon. We eat, check in to the hotel, and at about 2 pm, we head out for an evening shoot.
Our destination is the famous Anhinga Trail. Listed on the United States National Register of Historic Places, the trail is a must-see location in Everglades National Park. While the trail is short (less than half a mile long), the freshwater wetland is full of animals.
Along our hike, we see great blue herons, green herons, alligators, and a host of other avian species on the trail. While we visit, each guest explores the trail on their own as the area is target-rich.
The next morning we head to the Everglades once again. We take a walk around an old Mahogany Hammock (hammock is a colloquial name for a grove of trees). The stand of old-growth trees is full of small songbirds and trees so big, it’s credible to see them up close.
Soon, we are headed back to the hotel's conference room where we'll spend the morning discussing Lightroom strategy and other photographic tips and techniques. Before we leave the park for the morning, however, a stop at the visitor center is in order.
Soon, we are headed back to the hotel's conference room where we'll spend the morning discussing Lightroom strategy and other photographic tips and techniques. Before we leave the park for the morning, however, a stop at the visitor center is in order.
For the afternoon, we head far into the Everglades to explore the area around Flamingo. We eventually make our way to the end of the road and photograph an osprey low on the nest and a black-crowned night heron catching small crabs along an estuary. Near the day’s end, we see manatees bobbing up and down near the Flamingo marina. It’s a great bookend to the trip.
On the last day of the trip, we make the drive back to Fort Myers from Homestead. While the drive can be long we break it up with a couple of stops to photograph more of Southern Florida's endemic wildlife species. As the guests photograph alligators at one of our stops, I pause to enjoy the December weather. The temperatures are mild and the breeze feels good.
The Everglades is a great place to be.
On the last day of the trip, we make the drive back to Fort Myers from Homestead. While the drive can be long we break it up with a couple of stops to photograph more of Southern Florida's endemic wildlife species. As the guests photograph alligators at one of our stops, I pause to enjoy the December weather. The temperatures are mild and the breeze feels good.
The Everglades is a great place to be.
Learn More about our Birds & Wildlife of the Everglades trip!
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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
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Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.