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Trip Report: Birds & Wildlife of the Everglades - February 2023

by Russell Graves
It's nearly 4:00 am and the colon that splits the numbers of my hotel room's bedside clock blinks in syncopatic anticipation of my forthcoming alarm. I still have some time to sleep, but I relent to the day's expectations. I sling my legs off the bed, stand, and stretch.

"Might as well get started," I murmur as I shake off my slumberous haze, turn on the lights, and begin my day. I turn on the television. As cathartic as customary, I tune the TV to The Weather Channel. I like the background noise in the morning, and now and again, I'll get e glimpse of what the local weather holds in store for the day. As expected, the Southwest Florida weather will be extraordinary during the first week of February.

A few minutes later, I'm downstairs to start packing the van. While it's more than an hour before our scheduled departure, I'm not the only one with anticipatory jitters as a couple of guests are already in the lobby, ready to go. The backwaters of the Everglades and Southwest Florida make you feel like a kid waiting on Christmas morning. There's always an air of excitement about what's to come.
As the day lightens, we bounce down a gravel road to an immense cypress swamp. It's a bit foggy, but the fog thins quickly as the sun heats the air over Florida. With a new day nigh, the swamp comes alive. Blue herons squawk in protest as we walk past them on our way to our destination. Along the way, we see warblers and cardinals darting in and out of the low brush and alligator tongue. When we reach our destination (an area of open water in the cypress forest), birds hang around the margins. This is where the species count begins and by week's end, we'll see more than 80 species of birds, mammals, and reptiles.

In the little pocket of the swamp, green herons dart about while a female alligator guards her brood of a half dozen just-hatched babies. Out of nowhere, a pair of limpkins float in to feed mere feet away. It's my first time seeing these wading birds on any of my Everglades outings, so I alert the guests to the anomaly. Mostly, the limpkins are nondescript birds and not showy at all. They are beautiful nonetheless.


Out at the edge of the swamp, near where we parked, the birds are active as well. After a couple of hours at the water hole, we returned to where we had started. On a cypress, a great egret preens in the sun. Along the margin of the small water hole, a slew of baby alligators sits motionless. On one end of the slough, a black-crowned night heron stared into the water below while waiting for his meal. On the other end, a little blue heron waded. At the same time, a pair of cormorants dove underwater, trying to catch fish in which to satiate their constant hunger. Perched above it all is a red-shouldered hawk who watches the whole affair with the curiosity of a house cat.

The occasional sound of water going plunk catches our attention. Mere feet away, a cormorant, sleek and shining from the water, dives headlong into the tannic water colored a reddish tint by the acids in the cypress. With such turbidity, the cormorant disappears as soon as he submerges. He pops up ten feet away from where he first dove and then dives again.

PLUNK!

On his subsequent emergence, the cormorant brings up a catfish. Deftly, he moves the catfish from a cross-body clasp to arranging the pisces headlong into its gullet with a single move. Soon, the fish is gone - eaten by a ravenous bird.

From there, the week is a whirlwind of activity. We cast out in the mornings and spend the entire day looking for photographic activities. In the Everglades and her associated habitats, you don't have to wait long. Wildlife is everywhere. The wildlife sighting is punctuated by fabulous meals at local eateries, deep conversations with locals, and a growing fellowship made possible by a congruent love of photography and nature.

One morning, while on the boat tooling around Marco Island, we see a rare white-faced great blue heron. These geographically anomalous birds are usually found down in the Florida Keys. Still, one has drifted north and is feeding on a broad oyster shoal tucked into a shallow cut between some mangrove islands. He's big, yet his appearance belies everything we've come to understand about the commonly seen blue heron.

Nearby, American oystercatchers feed with their long, orange bill. They are strange-looking birds but beautiful in their own right. They migrate here each year and congregate in loose flocks.

Low tide also means the raccoons are out.  These island-marooned raccoons aren’t like inland raccoons in any of the normal senses.  Their feeding schedule isn’t dictated day and night like their suburban cousins.  Instead, they live their life by the tides.  A high tide keeps them on the island and most likely resting.  Come low tide, however, they take to the shorelines to feed.  Using their articulating paws, the small and swarthy raccoons look for tiny crabs, oysters, and any other kind of food left behind when the water recedes.  While feeding, they show little fear of people as they are focused on their singular mission of finding food before the next tide comes in.

Soon, we are cruising through a strait kicking up a modest wake behind us. Out of nowhere, we are joined by a small pod of dolphins. The dolphins, aided by the boat, speed up and jump gleefully behind us. They trail us for several minutes and give everyone ample opportunity to get memorable photos. Seeing dolphins is one of the seminal natural moments you'll rarely forget.
Late in the week, we are near the very southern tip of Florida. Sawgrass swamps fan out in all directions, interrupted only by the occasional pine key or mahogany hammock. These islands of trees rise with elevation changes where the calcareous bedrock has buckled, subsided, and eroded over time. In all, it's a patchwork of habitats that draw all kinds of birds and wildlife.

Near Flamingo, we see a red-shouldered hawk. He's low on a limb and unafraid of us. Therefore, we approach him about 20 feet away. It's perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime chance to be this close to a wild raptor, and each photographer takes advantage. Soon we are at the marina where a trip of manatees surface and then submerge in a semi-predictable pattern. Nearby a pair of osprey sits in a nest while an immense American crocodile swims lazily in a canal. This is the farthest-most point in North America where crocodiles are found, and his presence attracts a small crowd. It's remarkable to see, but it's one of the many surprises the Everglades always deliver.

It's an amazing place.

Learn more about our Birds & Wildlife of the Everglades photography tour!
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 AUTHOR 

Raised in rural Texas, Russell is the product of a modest, blue-collar upbringing, a stalwart work ethic, and a family who put no bounds on his imagination and creativity. When Russell was a junior in high school, he wrote a research paper for his end-of-year English project. The research paper (which he still has today), titled simply Wildlife Photography, earned him an "A" for the project. Still, more importantly, the mini-tome served as a manifesto of sorts that would define his life's work.

When he was 19, he had his first photographs and article published in a magazine. When he was 20, he earned his first magazine cover. By his own admission, the work now appears marginal and sophomoric. It was the spark, however, that ignited the fire to keep him going and perfect his creative craft.

Upon leaving a career in teaching, Russell continued his life's work by capturing the people and places outside of city limits in innovative and authentic ways. In the ensuing years, he continued to build on his experience and churn out content for clients through magazine pieces, advertising campaigns, television projects, and numerous books. In addition, he also worked with a small West Texas town to help them develop a marketing strategy and put together development deals that would bring jobs and prosperity to that little corner of rural Texas. 

Russell came to Backcountry Journeys in the fall of 2017 as a guest. He met owners Russ and Crystal Nordstrand as they were the leaders for the Katmai Bears trip. A few months later, Russ asked Russell if he wanted to guide trips. Since then, Russell has led nearly 500 guests on adventures worldwide. 

Russell says he feels like he's come full circle by combining his love of photography with his teaching ability.

In the media, Russell's been called a rural renaissance man, recognized as one of the top photographers in Texas, and praised by editors, art directors, and audiences alike for his ability to connect people and places through his written, spoken, and photographic stories. He's had nearly a million words published, authored six books, has had thousands of images grace the pages of magazines and advertisements all over the world (including about 600 magazine covers), is an in-demand speaker, has photographed some of the most prominent people in our country, and is the owner of two businesses. Still, he insists that his most significant accomplishments fall under the heading of father, husband, brother, son, and friend. 

When he's not in the field teaching or doing projects for one of his clients, Russell is found on his beloved Hackberry Farm driving his tractor and doing tasks that benefit the land and her denizens therein. He now lives a mile from the small stock farm on which he was raised. Black dirt and creek water are a powerful poultice. 

His parents are still proud of him

You can see Russell’s work and portfolio on his webpage at www.russellgraves.com

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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.

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BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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