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Trip Report: Botswana: Land of Giants - November 2022
Published February 9, 2023
My phone’s alarm chimed, rousing me from sleep at the early hour of 4:30 in the morning. Already, the southern Botswanan skies were turning a light shade of blue, foreshadowing the rising sun. It was November, near summertime in the southern hemisphere, and the long daylight hours began early this time of year as the sun came up by 5:15 each morning.
The local birdlife began their dawn chorus, singing beautiful melodies in sharp contrast to the nocturnal animal calls that resonated through the camp during the nighttime; hyenas and lion roars, animals hunting and being hunted.
The local birdlife began their dawn chorus, singing beautiful melodies in sharp contrast to the nocturnal animal calls that resonated through the camp during the nighttime; hyenas and lion roars, animals hunting and being hunted.
It was the sixth morning of Backcountry Journeys’ first foray into the Botswanan bush during the summertime, what travel industry folks cheekily refer to as the “green season,” because calling it the “rainy” season would be too much of a deterrent to encouraging foreigners from visiting during this time.
This was my third African safari of the year, but the first during the wet season for me as well. I’d come in July with my first two groups, during the Botswanan winter. During that visit, the weather was cool and dry, cold enough in the mornings to warrant down coats, knit caps, and gloves to fight the biting cold of riding in an open-air safari vehicle in the predawn hours.
But now, four months later, the dry, red leaves of the countless mopani trees of the Mashatu Game Reserve had been replaced with thick, waxy green foliage. The weather was warm, and the occasional thunderstorm rolled across the bush, lighting up the sky and filling the riverbeds with muddy water.
One evening, we were caught out in one such tempest, but the expert driving of Edward, our safari guide, and the timely donning of ponchos kept us safe and dry enough to laugh it off as “one hell of a ride” once we got back to camp.
But now, four months later, the dry, red leaves of the countless mopani trees of the Mashatu Game Reserve had been replaced with thick, waxy green foliage. The weather was warm, and the occasional thunderstorm rolled across the bush, lighting up the sky and filling the riverbeds with muddy water.
One evening, we were caught out in one such tempest, but the expert driving of Edward, our safari guide, and the timely donning of ponchos kept us safe and dry enough to laugh it off as “one hell of a ride” once we got back to camp.
That had been on our third night out, just after finishing a wonderful sunset photography session with a male lion. But, this morning, we were on a mission to find a pride of two lionesses and their five cubs. The evening before, we had been with them for our end-of-day photo session. And on the way out, we came across an eland, the second largest antelope species in the world, lying in the shade of a hedge row.
Something looked off, and upon closer inspection, it became apparent that the eland was injured with a broken leg and unable to stand. The spot where it had gone down was only a few hundred yards from where the pride of lions was resting. The inevitable outcome of this situation was obvious. The eland would not make it through the night.
Something looked off, and upon closer inspection, it became apparent that the eland was injured with a broken leg and unable to stand. The spot where it had gone down was only a few hundred yards from where the pride of lions was resting. The inevitable outcome of this situation was obvious. The eland would not make it through the night.
That following morning, rubbing the sleep from our eyes, we climbed into the modified Toyota Land Cruiser, and our driver Edward pointed us straight back to the site of the downed eland. Almost an hour later, we arrived on the scene There was the eland, but now dead. It was missing large chunks of flesh from its rump and there was an open cavity in its abdomen.
Around the carcass sat the lions, with bulging stomachs and blood-stained mouths. They had gorged themselves on eland flesh during the night and now sat in the shade digesting. We sat with them for some time, and after a while, one or two lions at a time would approach the carcass to feed again, gnawing at the flesh and pulling large chunks of meat off.
I asked Edward how long he thought the carcass would last the two lioness and their five cubs, and he said at least a few days unless a clan of hyenas was to come and chase them off the kill.
Around the carcass sat the lions, with bulging stomachs and blood-stained mouths. They had gorged themselves on eland flesh during the night and now sat in the shade digesting. We sat with them for some time, and after a while, one or two lions at a time would approach the carcass to feed again, gnawing at the flesh and pulling large chunks of meat off.
I asked Edward how long he thought the carcass would last the two lioness and their five cubs, and he said at least a few days unless a clan of hyenas was to come and chase them off the kill.
Visiting Mashatu Game Reserve in Botswana any time of year will yield countless wildlife sightings. Leopards, lions, and elephants are encountered nearly daily. And the antelopes, warthogs, giraffes, jackals, and zebra are literally everywhere. Add to that the beautiful bird life, like saddle-billed storks, lilac-breasted rollers, and hornbills, Mashatu is the wildlife photographer’s Mecca.
I feel very fortunate to have been able to visit Mashatu during two distinctly different seasons. And though the “green season” of November did introduce a little rain from time to time, this only enhanced the experience. Plus, the weather is so much more comfortable than during the winter. Given, winter there is not extremely cold, but I’m a warm-weather kind of person. And the lack of a need for cold weather gear was a major plus for visiting in the wet season.
I feel very fortunate to have been able to visit Mashatu during two distinctly different seasons. And though the “green season” of November did introduce a little rain from time to time, this only enhanced the experience. Plus, the weather is so much more comfortable than during the winter. Given, winter there is not extremely cold, but I’m a warm-weather kind of person. And the lack of a need for cold weather gear was a major plus for visiting in the wet season.
For BCJ clients ready for a real-deal African safari experience, and you’re unsure what time of year is best, let me break down the equation for you. It’s very simple. Just figure out when is the soonest trip and does it have open slots. That’s it. There is no wrong choice here.
Learn more about our Botswana: Land of Giants photography tour!
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experiences around the world.
Each tour is bundled with lodging, meals, and transportation between workshops included, allowing you to focus on photography instead of the stress of traveling.
experiences around the world.
Each tour is bundled with lodging, meals, and transportation between workshops included, allowing you to focus on photography instead of the stress of traveling.
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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
- Russ Nordstrand, Backcountry Journeys Founder & Director
- Russ Nordstrand, Backcountry Journeys Founder & Director
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All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLCs - Copyright 2025
BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2025
TRIP CATALOG
Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.