Welcome to Sin City, a place where all your dreams and nightmares can come true! You want it, they got it. You need it, they have it. You desire it…Well, that’s a different story. Anyways, welcome to Las Vegas, Nevada! The place where our adventure begins. However, we are not here to enjoy the pretty lights and the thrilling shows. The wilderness is our true calling. Leaving Nevada, we will roll into California to spend nearly six days on a landscape photography expedition in Death Valley National Park (February 5-10 & 12-17).
Departing from Las Vegas the morning after orientation, we traveled nearly two hours to reach the largest national park in the lower 48 states. It is a vast desert that is more than three million acres in size. Death Valley National Park is a remote landscape full of extremes. Many people who visit the park usually imagine salt flats and sand dunes. However, the park consists of so much more! Dry basins are framed by towering mountains. A vast array of minerals and fault lines paint the desert with an array of colors and abstract designs. Old mines and ghost towns provide clues to the park’s rugged history. It is a landscape photographer’s dream.
Upon arrival, we entered Twenty Mule Canyon, named after the twenty mule teams used to haul borax across the valley on behalf of Harmony Borax Works. This was an opportunity for folks to stretch their legs, organize their gear, and start oiling their trigger fingers. After taking a few stops while driving down the dirt road, we swung by Zabriskie Point, a popular destination in the park. This was simply a pit stop so folks can scout the area in preparation for an upcoming sunrise shoot.
Before moving on, I would like to point out that this is a combined trip report for both of the Backcountry Journeys Death Valley photography tours that occurred in 2023. Even though there was a difference in scheduling between the two tours, both groups visited all the sites mentioned in this report. Now back to the adventure!
After checking into our lodge at The Ranch at Death Valley, the first group went to Artist Palette for sunset while the second group spent the evening near Devil’s Cornfield at the Mesquite Sand Dunes. Personally, I believe Devil’s Cornfield was a great way to experience our first sunset in the park. Tall arrow weeds scattered the flat landscape aligning the edge of the dunes. Ripples of sand and fallen logs added a variety of contrast and angles among the shifting dunes and setting sun. Within about a mile from the road, various treasures provided a variety of elements to perfect your skills while admiring the beauty of the desert.
The following morning we returned to the dunes. This time, we hiked across the sandy hills to capture the golden light reflecting off the rippling sand. Sadly, during the second tour, clouds buried the mountains and blocked the sun. A storm was rolling in.
After a few hours in the dunes, we had breakfast at Stovepipe Wells which was located nearby. That’s when things got interesting. The wind picked up and we found ourselves in a sandstorm. Dust squeezed in between the cracks of the windows and beneath the door, creating a hazy atmosphere in the restaurant. The heavy winds created a power outage at multiple sites within the park.
Leaving the restaurant, we rushed to our van while being pummeled by blowing sand. We drove through the sandy blizzard to distance ourselves from the dunes. Escaping the storm, we couldn’t resist the urge to pull over and photograph this extreme event. We were lucky to be rewarded with a unique and fascinating experience. Thank goodness we left the dunes before the storm hit.
During the previous tour, we spent the evening photographing the salt flats at Badwater Basin, which is more than 200 feet below sea level. Having dinner in the field, we then remain in the open landscape for some astrophotography. As a result of the storm, the second group had to postpone that hike for another day. Instead, they spent the evening photographing the array of colors that painted the desert walls at Artist Pallet.
Day three in the park was the longest day, beginning with an early morning drive up to Aguereberry Point for sunrise. At over 6,000 feet above sea level, cold wind and low temperatures required you to have winter layers and warm gloves to maximize your comfort while shooting in the light of dawn.
Later, we ventured through Wildrose Canyon after a light breakfast in the field. Within the canyon were the Wildrose Charcoal Kilns which were operated by the Modock Consolidated Mining Company from 1877-1879. It is unknown why the company stopped using them after two years, but it would explain why they were still in a pristine condition more than 100 years later.
The entire morning was spent driving through the Panamint Mountains toward the valley. We climbed and descended in elevation, past isolated Joshua trees, and cruised among pinyon pines and junipers.
After a few hours of driving, we finally arrived at Panamint Valley. We then spent the afternoon photographing at Father Crowley Vista and Panamint Valley Playa. Considering the second group missed out on some astrophotography due to the sand storm, we decided to take advantage of the only clear night we were gifted for that week. So, we made a quick stop at Devil’s Cornfield.
During our final full day in the park, we finally returned to Zabriskie Point to photograph the waves of light across the rolling landscape. A few hours were spent watching as the shadows shifted across the desert while isolating the cracks within the rocky terrain. After viewing the beauty from above, we then explored the beauty from within, hiking through the Golden Canyon. It was a destination you could have once driven through, but now, only a few concrete slabs remind visitors of its history.
During the final evening in the park, the first group scurried around Devil’s Cornfield and pranced among the sandy dunes. The second group, on the other hand, finally got to take their two-mile walk out to Badwater Basin. Standing beneath the desert sky, folks waited for the evening light to surrender at dusk. At the basin, the crystalized salt rose up from the cracks of the dry lake bed, mottling the desert with large polygons. After an isolated session in the desert, both groups stuffed their bellies with a tasty dinner.
Five days later we finally stood on the ridge at Dante’s Point, overlooking Badwater Basin. A final stop that gave us the opportunity to take one last look at the arid landscape before returning to the big city. After another chilly morning and a warm breakfast, our “Death Valley: Land of Extremes” adventure came to an end.
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