Trip Report: Greenland: Red Sails & Disko Bay - August 2025

“There are icebergs, and then there are Greenland icebergs”, I was told by a fellow guide a few years ago as we sailed through the fjords of Northwestern Svalbard. At the time we were cruising by some pretty massive pieces of ice, ones that I speculated were among the biggest I had personally seen. It was hard to imagine icebergs as big as he described. 

Fast forward a few years and I found myself on a prop plane approaching the small town of Ilulissat, Greenland. As we began our decent and came through the clouds, I could see the Ice Fjord and all the bergs floating in Disko Bay. They didn’t seem that big I thought to myself. Then I noticed a small speck next to one of the bergs that turned out to be a cruise ship. So that was what he meant by “Greenland icebergs”. 

We were here for the inaugural Backcountry Journeys “Greenland: Red Sails & Disko Bay” trip. This arctic adventure would have us sailing around Disko Bay looking for compositions amongst the endless icebergs and midnight sun. Fellow guide Jon Resnick and I were stoked for the week of photography with our group.  

Ilulissat is a charming little community and the third largest city in Greenland, yet still only has a population of just under 5,000. It is sometimes referred to as the “City of Icebergs” due to it’s proximity to the Ilulissat Icefjord. The Icefjord is a UNESCO World Heritage site where ice from the Greenland Ice Cap makes its way into the the waters of Disko Bay. The glacier that enters into the fjord is the Jakobshavn Glacier. This glacier puts up some pretty impressive statistics and is an important study for scientists. It is one the fastest moving glaciers in the world, moving at speeds up to 150 feet a day. It drains about 6.5% of the ice off of the ice sheet and accounts for 10% of all Greenland icebergs. Not only that, experts believe that the iceberg that sunk the Titanic originated from the Jakobshavn Glacier.  

On top of all the massive icebergs, we were here to shoot the red sail boats. These specific and custom boats were the brainchild of our local partner. After traveling to and photographing the icebergs around Greenland, he realized a boat with red sails would stand out brilliantly against the blue ice. The vision was impressive and now the red sails have become an iconic fixture of modern landscape photography.  

Each night, our group would load up on the two sail boats and head out looking for interesting icebergs. Having two boats is critical as it allows us to each shoot the other boat with it’s sails up. We slowly would pick our way through the ice looking for compelling places to take turns posing for the other boat. There was always a lot of time spent on the radios making sure each boat was in the perfect spot for the perfect shot. It was so fun coming up with ideas for shots to execute. When the light, ice, and sails come together, it really is quite remarkable how nice the shots come out. 

After slow mornings catching up on sleep, we would often go into town to explore a bit. We hiked along the Icefjord and visited churches and museums. The highlight of town had to be the innumerable sled dog puppies that were eager to have their picture taken. They say there are almost as many sled dogs in Ilulissat as there are people and I believe it. These dogs are so picturesque and have so much character. Our group really enjoyed photographing these cultural staples. 

One of the highlights of this trip was our journey up to a nearby village named Rodebay. Rodebay is a very small village about twelve miles north of Ilulissat. It was a historic whaling village, hence the Dutch name meaning “red bay” when the waters were said to have been red with the blood of whales. Today it is a quiet settlement with about 40 residents and is incredible photogenic. Red, yellow, blue, and green houses dot the landscape as massive icebergs tower in the distance. We also were treated to an excellent dinner of muskox steak in the town’s lone restaurant. After dinner, we were able to wander around, taking in the views, saying hi to the sled dogs, and making a few images before we left. 

On our way back to Ilulissat, we saw one of the coolest icebergs I have ever seen. A striking pinnacle with a twisted layered pattern that reminded us of a soft serve ice cream cone. We made a beeline to it and as we got closer, the more impressive it became. Thankfully the light arrived at the same time and we were able to shoot the sail boats lined up with the bergs and sunset. Unfortunately, during our time in Rodebay, the currents shifted the smaller ice around and made the return home slow and methodical. Our captains did an incredible job navigating the thick ice. It was a long journey working our way back to the bay, but totally worth it to be able to photograph such an amazing scene. 

As we wrapped up a productive week of shooting, I can’t help but feel like it is such a gift to spend time in these fragile corners of earth. The arctic is one of my favorite places to on earth. The light, the subjects, and the experience always leave me feeling grateful. Thanks to Jon, our local partners, and all our guests for the wonderful experience!