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Trip Report: Interior Alaska, Denali & Prince William Sound - September 2022

by Russell Graves
Let me tell you a story.  I suppose this one is not unlike the countless ones you've heard before: This one is an antecedent to a broader narrative. It connects people from all over the nation to the vast wilderness of Alaska.

It was a dreary day for the most part.  Heavy skies hung over interior Alaska for the better part of the weekend.  According to the meteorological prognosticators, it'd be cloudy for some time to come.  Cloudy days are simply a way of life in the middle of the last frontier.  While the area gets less than five inches of rain annually (an amount that's as dry as any desert), a thick mat of clouds often looms over the landscape.  It's evocative of a place that's big, wild, and almost entirely untamed. 

Early on, we traveled from Fairbanks down toward Denali National Park.  Rain spit from the low clouds for most of the day, and, as expected, the giant mountain that's the national park's namesake is shrouded.  By bus, we travel past the Savage River into Denali's Interior.  The landscape's speckled red and yellow from the autumn leaves changing on the low brush.  While it's barely September, summer's already come to an end.  The fireweed is long past its peak, birch and aspen leaves accelerate their change from green to yellow, and winter's bone is nigh.

After a jaunt in and out of Denali, we headed to supper and out of the park.  Over in Healy, we dine at 49th State Brewery.  It's a jaunty establishment and the food is comforting and ample even for a weeknight, the place bustles.  A quick peek at a weather app, the weather seems to be improving for at least a small window of time.

So we head north towards Nenana.  The highway from Healy is long, straight, and dark.  There's no sign of settlement in sight, and, save for the ribbon of blacktop on which we drive, little's changed about the land.

After an hour or so drive, a star appears through a break in the clouds.  It's only one of the millions that hang in the Alaskan skies but it's a sign of hope for us.  Soon the hole in the cloud widens from horizon to horizon and we pull over to spill from the van. A wisp overhead dances and widens.  It's the aurora borealis.



Through what is perhaps the only hole in the clouds in the entire state, we stand beneath it and watch the aurora build and wane for the better part of two hours.  Although I've seen the Northern Lights on dozens of occasions, it never gets old.  Through the cool evening and an ever-stiffening breeze, we take photo after photo of the ephemeral show in the heavens.

In the dark and in near silence, an understanding settles across the group: they know the specialness of Alaska.

For the next several days, we'd take in the last frontier in a way that few ever experience.  Our overland excursions take us through Alaska's interior highway system in a great loop that takes us from Fairbanks to Valdez and back again.  Along the way, we stop at several noteworthy spots to learn about the area's history and engage in a slow form of immersive photography.
Over Hatcher Pass and north of Palmer, the Independence Mine stands testament to a time when the promise of gold brought miners north to a harsh land.  The mine stands at the top of a high mountain draw where the buildings are haphazardly placed in relation to one another.  While utilitarian in design, the site has its own beauty against an otherwise stunning mountainous backdrop.
Further south, we spend the morning at the immense Matanuska Glacier.  This immense sheet of ice flows about a foot a day and originates 27 miles at the top of a vast ice field.  In the Chugach Mountains, this isn't the only glacier.  Throughout our travels, we see the Worthington Glacier, the Valdez Glacier and countless others that adorn high mountain valleys.  Even in the late summer, dull blue ice defies the season's heat.  It hangs on until another winter commences and more snowpack is added. 




From the Sheep Mountain Lodge, where we slumber, we make our way to Valdez.  Across the wilderness, we see moose, exquisite mountain peaks and travel above treeline as we traverse Thompson Pass.  From the top of the pass, the landscape is barren and looks inhospitable but low-growing shrubs and bushes cling to the soil and defy the brutal winds that plague this high mountain passage.

Down the hill, the road winds through verdant cabins on its way to Valdez.  Tall waterfalls cascade over the rocks and spill into the creeks below.  All of the water flows south on its way to Prince William Sound.  We are truly headed to the end of the road and as we pull into the port town, it amazes me that anyone lives in Valdez.  Locked into a small flat spot at the head of a glacial valley, Valdez, Alaska's seen its share of challenges.

It was razed by the huge Good Friday earthquake of 1964.  Then two-and-a-half decades later, the Exxon Valdez ran aground on a submerged reef after loading a belly full of heavy crude at the nearby Port of Valdez.  It was a massive ecological disaster, but the number of bald eagles and sea otters makes me think the area is returning to its normal balance.


Across the bay from the town, the Alaska Pipeline terminates.  For its time (or any time), it was an incredible engineering feat.  From the Arctic Ocean, crude oil is piped across Alaska's interior until it reaches here.

Just shy of the terminal, thousands of salmon run upstream to return to the creeks and tidal flats where they were born.  Spent of energy, after the fish lay their eggs, they die.  Because of the intense concentration of fish, black bears, sea otters, harbor seals, and Stellar sea lions congregate in the flats on the rocks around the delta.  During high tide, the animals wait.  When the tide recedes, a feeding frenzy begins.  On two occasions, we travel to the spot to witness the spectacle of black bears and sea lions close to one another.  I can't think of anywhere else where this phenomenon occurs.


All week long, the weather's been rainy but we've managed.  By the time we get to the Black Rapids Lodge, the rain has waned but a new weather system is moving in and ushering in dramatic skies.  The wind ensues.

This weather is typical in Alaska.  As one season wanes and a new one begins, it's a meteorological battle of push and pull amongst air masses.  The mountains make their own weather while shaping and influencing the weather all around.  By now, we're near Delta Junction on the east side of the Alaska Mountain range.  Here, rugged mountains rise and stand sentinel around the most prominent mountain in North America - Denali.  While Denali remains shrouded in clouds on our entire trip, the allure of the peak is still there and its appeal is omnipresent.

From a grass strip in Delta Junction, we climb aboard a Cessna 206.  Bouncing down the runway, I stare out of the window and watch the golden aspens turn speed past.  The trip's been long but eventful.  A whole new group of people sees in Alaska what I see: a place that's wild and big and full of surprises.  Now at 500 feet above the terrain, fall colors spill out all around and the mountains rise to the south.  At the edge of the clouds, a big, hard sun tries to peak through, but it's never able.  Winter's nigh and the seasonal forces are just too strong.

The group that rides with me on the plane is contemplative.  I can tell.  It's silent in the plane as snow, ice, moose, tundra, and caribou slip beneath us.


That's Alaska.












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 AUTHOR 

Raised in rural Texas, Russell is the product of a modest, blue-collar upbringing, a stalwart work ethic, and a family who put no bounds on his imagination and creativity. When Russell was a junior in high school, he wrote a research paper for his end-of-year English project. The research paper (which he still has today), titled simply Wildlife Photography, earned him an "A" for the project. Still, more importantly, the mini-tome served as a manifesto of sorts that would define his life's work.

When he was 19, he had his first photographs and article published in a magazine. When he was 20, he earned his first magazine cover. By his own admission, the work now appears marginal and sophomoric. It was the spark, however, that ignited the fire to keep him going and perfect his creative craft.

Upon leaving a career in teaching, Russell continued his life's work by capturing the people and places outside of city limits in innovative and authentic ways. In the ensuing years, he continued to build on his experience and churn out content for clients through magazine pieces, advertising campaigns, television projects, and numerous books. In addition, he also worked with a small West Texas town to help them develop a marketing strategy and put together development deals that would bring jobs and prosperity to that little corner of rural Texas. 

Russell came to Backcountry Journeys in the fall of 2017 as a guest. He met owners Russ and Crystal Nordstrand as they were the leaders for the Katmai Bears trip. A few months later, Russ asked Russell if he wanted to guide trips. Since then, Russell has led nearly 500 guests on adventures worldwide. 

Russell says he feels like he's come full circle by combining his love of photography with his teaching ability.

In the media, Russell's been called a rural renaissance man, recognized as one of the top photographers in Texas, and praised by editors, art directors, and audiences alike for his ability to connect people and places through his written, spoken, and photographic stories. He's had nearly a million words published, authored six books, has had thousands of images grace the pages of magazines and advertisements all over the world (including about 600 magazine covers), is an in-demand speaker, has photographed some of the most prominent people in our country, and is the owner of two businesses. Still, he insists that his most significant accomplishments fall under the heading of father, husband, brother, son, and friend. 

When he's not in the field teaching or doing projects for one of his clients, Russell is found on his beloved Hackberry Farm driving his tractor and doing tasks that benefit the land and her denizens therein. He now lives a mile from the small stock farm on which he was raised. Black dirt and creek water are a powerful poultice. 

His parents are still proud of him

You can see Russell’s work and portfolio on his webpage at www.russellgraves.com

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BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

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