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Trip Report: Southern Cypress Swamps - November 2024

by Jon Resnick

When you tell someone you’re going to photograph for a couple of weeks on the Texas/Louisiana border, even when talking to a Texan, you often get a number of follow-up questions and intrigue. You then describe what you’ve seen in your trip research- cypress trees growing out of a lake, with long Spanish moss and fall foliage in its midst of change. An eerie, unique landscape that looks more like a painting.

I feel that the moment you arrive on the lake, you are overwhelmed by the depth of exactly what you’d envisioned the place to be. An immersive labyrinth of channels and alleys (bayous) with an eerie dramatic feel. A truly unique and beautiful landscape.

This area was originally inhabited by The Caddo Indians, who sold the land to the US government in 1835. The area was originally a wetland, with influence from the Red River and Big Cypress River (or Bayou). The Cypress trees here are as old as 500 years and part of the largest cypress forest in the world. There was a great log jam in the early 1800s that turned this wetland area into a lake. The log jam was slowly broken up, over the course of almost 100 years. This work was mostly done to allow steamboats to access the town of Jefferson, which was one of the largest ports in the country and the 2nd largest city in the state. Just before its clearing, off-shore oil drilling was developed here, the first offshore drilling ever done. After the log jam was cleared, the lake dissipated and turned back into a muddy wetland, making oil drilling unmanageable. Thus, a dam was created to bring back the lake, and oil drilling as well. The lake has remained since and is the largest and only naturally formed lake in the state.

Something you learn quickly on this trip, and a big reason why I’d come back here over and over again, is that this is a split trip. While people come here for the landscape, the birding is fantastic. If you want solid Great Blue Heron photos, come straight here!

There are herons you go right by on the posts marking the boat lanes...

…herons posing on the shoreline...

…and herons flying right beside you!

Beyond the Great Blue Herons, you’ll also find White Egrets, Pileated Woodpeckers, Kingfishers, Bald Eagles, and Osprey.

We always have our telephoto’s ready for wildlife. While the birds are the focus, we also are on the lookout for turtles, Big Foot of course (a famous spot for “sightings,”) and last year I got a nice deer photo here as well. The alligators are here, but not seen this time of year as it’s too cold for them.

On the second week of trips, our group had a long and close encounter with a beautiful night heron.

Each morning and evening, we’d head back out on our pontoon boat led by Captain Mike, a highlight of our time in his own right. Mike grew up coming to the lake, and along with his class southern charm and hospitality, had endless stories and facts for us. Mike even took out the writers of the 2024 film “Caddo Lake” by M Night Shyamalan. Led by Mike’s knowledge of the area and astute sense of a photographer’s desire, we would search for birds, perfect light, and everything in between.

We would settle into our routine, grab our new favorite snacks, check our settings, and head back out to capture more. We passed other boats and kayakers…

…and we learned more and more locations throughout this 35,000 acres of land and lake.

We also learned many stories from this place: from the Caddo Indians to the forming of the lake and its natural and unnatural history as well. We learned some of its unique stories, including this infamous “Tea Room” that served alcohol during prohibition.

Speaking of history, we benefited by staying in the charming and historic town of Jefferson. We had time to walk around and enjoy town, while also eating at a number of fine establishments that were all within walking distance from our charming hotel, the oldest hotel in Texas that has been graced by the likes of Lady Bird Johnson and Steven Spielberg.
With seven opportunities to go out on the lake, we had the opportunity to dig deep into this place. To see it in a different light, and to tell the story as we learned more of its depth. We photographed the native lily pads…

…along with the invasive salvinia and water hyacinth. While the invasive species are damaging, they too are a part of the story. And the water hyacinth in particular, does produce a beautiful purple flower. Each day, we’d see the foliage turn more and more, adding to the drama of the area.

And how can you reference drama without discussing sunrise and sunset on a photo trip? While we had our mix of clear and clouds, my favorite day was one that would normally end with little photos, but happened to be magic here. On said morning, it was almost totally socked-in, with no promise of light. As we approached an open area of the lake, our shutters were ignited as you couldn’t tell the difference between water and sky, and the cypress trees seemed to float in thin air.
A stark difference between our clear reflections, and all of our other sunrises and sunsets, but likely my favorite of them all.
Our time in Caddo Lake was truly unforgettable. We came with anticipation and expectation, and left with smiles, new friends, and full memory cards. I’ll leave you with an image I took on our final evening, as we had finished shooting sunset, and dusk had quickly approached. The water was glassy and I held my camera as stable as I could while I took a long exposure to capture the blur of a wispy cloud and the steady horizon line. Till next time Caddo Lake!
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 AUTHOR 

Jon Resnick is based in Salida, Colorado. Born and raised in Philadelphia, he moved west in 2010. Jon’s eyes have still not yet adjusted to the beauty the Western US provides on a daily basis.

After years of hand-me-down point-and-shoots, Jon picked up his first SLR, and his world was enlightened. He’s been hooked ever since and is excited to be a part of the BCJ team on this current chapter of his photographic life.

Jon is a passionate outdoorsman, spending many of his days hiking, skiing, biking, and paddling; often documenting along the way. He has guided and led trips since 2010- taking countless people hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, snowshoeing, and backcountry skiing. Jon loves sharing his passions and seeing people’s eyes open up to the beauty around them.

He got his start in photography in the ski industry where he is grateful to have had images in a number of major publications including The Washington Post, Forbes, Outside, and The Wall Street Journal.

Check out some of Jon’s work at:
 JResnick215.com or Instagram.com/JResnick215




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BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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