Two weeks spent in the woods and two weeks doesn't seem long enough. Everywhere you look, the scenes are idyllic. Bears are everywhere, the trees shine verdantly with a shade of green not seen in months, and water flows from upstream hollers and babbles crystal clear across smooth rocks adorned in moss.
The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of those places where the more you learn about it, the more you love it. It's an unending maze of trees, streams, rivers, and rocks, and each crease creates a habitat for a staggering number of plant and wildlife species. Layer the cultural aspect of the park upon the natural history and what's created is a magical place steeped in history.
As mountains go, the Smokies don't have the monumentalism of the Rockies. Instead, the beauty is more subtle as the mountain range is the oldest on the continent, having formed 480 million years ago. The mountains are rounded and covered with vegetation due to the erosional forces of wind and water over millions of years. The Smokies is home to the latest stand of old-growth forest east of the Mississippi River. While the Great Smokies Mountain National Park doesn't encompass the entire Smoky Mountain Range, a big chunk of it (more than half a million acres) is public land.
The Trip
While still dark, we leave Asheville early enough to get on the road and head to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The mountain roads are serpentine, and travel is a bit slower in the dark. Still, the excitement and energy are palpable as we make our way toward Bryson City and the Deep Creek area of the park.
We arrive at sunrise and park amongst an understory of trees whose leaves are still unfurling from the onset of warm weather and longer days brought forth by the natural changes after the vernal equinox. We park, and everyone is given instructions as to gear selection. We make the short walk to photograph a dup of waterfalls along the trail.
Tom Branch Falls is a tall waterfall that plunges over a precipice eighty feet above the creek. Slow shutter speeds are the rule, and each person lines up to photograph the water feature with their creative sensibilities in mind. Looking at the back of other's cameras, a chaotic liquid plunge is captured as a smooth and silky flow thanks to the slow shutter speeds. The falls are tamed.
Further upstream, Indian Creek Falls awaits and one after one, the guests head up the trail to photograph that feature. Along the way, wildflowers bloom. Over 1,500 flowering plants exist in the park, and while it is impossible to see all of them, we did try our best. Each species of tree and flowering plant forces me to rack through the botanical library that's buried deep in my brain to come up with the appropriate name. Many of the plants and flower monikers are complicated, puzzling, and amusing all at the same time. Around us, we have plants like Mountain Doghobble, Rue's Anemone, Carolina Sweetshrub, and scores more. I know many of the plants and flowers, but admittedly, I swing and miss a few. No worries, however, as the guests are enthralled with the beauty before them.
With the mid-day chores of lunch and checking in to a new hotel behind us, we launch for an evening excursion to Clingman's Dome - the highest point in the park. The weather is blustery - even for late April. The wind blows hard, and it's twenty degrees cooler here than at the base of the mountains in Gatlinburg, but we persist.
From the top of the domed mountain, you can see for miles. Each row of mountains is stacked on top of one another, and the characteristic blue haze that clings to the sky about the rounded peaks gives the mountain range its name. With each passing minute, the sun sinks toward the horizon. As the sun slips lower, the light changes. It's a kaleidoscope of colors that's inspired humans for ages.
The next day we watch the sun come up over the eastern side of the Smokies. The broad parking area below the 6,600-foot Clingman's Dome’s peak ensures a wide panoramic countryside view. From here, we can watch the sun come up in the east and provide a different view of the mountains than what we'd witnessed the evening before.
From there, we drive over to the historic Mingus Mill - a 19th-century grist mill that uses turbine technology to turn the millstones against one another to finely grind corn. Water from a nearby creek flows through a wooden sluice and slides down the long flume to the mill. The entire contraction is rustically beautiful and makes for an interesting photo study.
Soon we are headed down the hill, across Newfound Gap, and back into North Carolina for a late breakfast in Cherokee.
After a short break at the hotel, we take the Roaring Fork Nature Trail that flanks Gatlinburg. It's a six-mile-long drive that takes us past old log homes, beautiful mountain streams, and even more wildflowers. Each person finds what suits them on each of our stops along the Roaring Fork trail. Some take to the barns and log cabins, others find photographic inspiration in the water's intricacies, and we see a smattering of black bears.
On the second leg of our trip, we go to Townsend, Tennessee, where we stay in quaint log cabins at the Dancing Bear Lodge. Along the way, we stop at a few locations along the Little River to photograph riffles and wildflowers along the river bank and escarpments that flank the watercourse.
Once at the cabins, our check-in is quick, and we stop in at the Apple Valley Cafe for supper, and then it's back to the park for an evening photography session.
Lynn Camp Prong Cascades and Cades Cove are the preferred destinations. At Lynn Camp, water flows over cascades for interesting studies in slow shutter-speed water. Cades Cove is a former pioneer settlement traversed by a big loop road that cuts around the valley's margins.
We head to Cades Cove in the morning, where the bears will be active. Immediately upon driving into the upper reaches of the cove, we see a mature eastern wild turkey, and he's strutting and gobbling as we pull up. He's vocal, animated, and loves his spot in the field, so we each fan out to get a better position on the tom. We photograph him in beautiful light against a beautiful background for fifteen minutes. It's exciting to see a turkey display and strut, but after all, it is breeding season for the turkey.
The road winding through Cades Cove is a relaxing one. Wooded hills and a winding drive take us through idyllic southern hardwood scenery. The drive is punctuated by pioneer cabins and churches, so in between looking for wildlife, we shoot a few pictures of them.
Photographing the Smokies is an exercise in using all of the photographic disciplines at your disposal. On these trips, we shoot traditional landscapes, slow shutter speed water shots, waterfalls, big, mountainous overlooks, panoramic compositions, macro, and wildlife via telephoto lenses - you name it, we did it. And we did it in a quiet and respectful style that complimented everyone's photographic style.
Besides waterfalls and mountains, we take the time to explore old churches, cabins, and other manmade structures that complement well with the Southern mountain landscape. Along the way, we see black bears, Eastern wild turkeys, and a catalog of wildflowers and trees yearning to stretch their leaves to meet the glorious sunlight of spring. This trip is a lot of photography packed into a single week. Still, the results of aiming a camera at something beautiful and capturing a lifelong memory of it are unequivocally worth any lack of sleep you may endure.
![]()