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Trip Report: The Best of Iceland - September 2023

by Douglas Marshall


A Photographer's Dream


"In Iceland, the weather is the biggest character you deal with every day. There’s nothing more relevant in your life than what kind of weather it is"
-Baltasar Kormakur. 

Nothing could be more accurate than these wise words uttered by the Icelandic actor and Film Director.

Welcome to the land of ethereal landscapes and breathtaking beauty – and ever-changing weather. Where every corner of this Nordic Island holds a photographer's dream and offers us an unparalleled canvas for capturing nature's most awe-inspiring moments, as well as getting a taste of some of the unique culture of this Nordic land.

As our group journeyed through this mesmerizing country, we prepared ourselves for a sensory overload. From cascading waterfalls that seemed to defy gravity, to majestic glaciers carving their way through rugged terrain, and beautiful coastal beaches with sea stacks and angry seas and ancient glacier ice, glimmering like diamonds. Geothermal areas that seemed to have an array of colors straight from an artist’s pallet, Iceland effortlessly showcased Mother Nature at her finest and with weather as diverse as our scenery, made for some dramatic light and diverse shooting that is like no other place on the planet.

As mentioned, the diversity of subjects to photograph here is astounding. We explored black sand beaches adorned with volcanic rock formations and thousands of years old ice from glaciers. Witnessed geothermal wonders like erupting geysers and bubbling mud pots, And the waterfalls, oh the waterfalls! Whether you're an amateur snapper or a professional lensman, Iceland will ignite your creativity like never before. Let its raw wilderness awaken your sense of wonder as you frame unforgettable scenes that tell stories beyond words.


As we embarked out of Reykjavík on our journey and started down Hwy 1, also known as the Ring Road, and the magnificent southern coastline, we were awestruck by the sheer power and beauty of numerous enchanting waterfalls. We were all enthusiastic and stood before Seljalandsfoss, and some guests were even daring enough to walk behind its cascading curtain, for a very wet experience! We heard the thunderous roar that echoed through our souls at Skógafoss, where nature's forces have carved a masterpiece into the earth's surface. The sun popped out while we were photographing the falls and formed a beautiful rainbow at its base. Arriving in Vik—the southernmost village in Iceland—we were greeted by dramatic cliffs and crashing waves against a backdrop of black sand beaches. We explored Reynisfjara Beach with its towering basalt columns rising proudly from the sea—an atmospheric setting that ignites imagination and fills the soul with an energy from the power of the sea. This area is also home to the Dyrhólaey Peninsula, which overlooks the famed Black Sand beach.

We continued our route on the southern coast of Iceland, with its mesmerizing landscapes and breathtaking natural wonders, it is an absolute must-visit for any adventurer seeking to uncover the hidden gems of this Nordic wonderland. This extraordinary route led us to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon—an otherworldly spectacle that seems plucked from a dream. We witnessed majestic icebergs floating serenely in the glacial waters while seals playfully danced around them and breaks in the clouds that formed shafts of light, illuminating the blocks of floating ice in such a way that was dreamlike—a truly surreal experience that left us open mouthed in amazement.
And then there is Diamond Beach—a magical place where shards of ancient glaciers glisten like precious jewels upon black volcanic sands. We were lucky enough to catch a stunning sunrise at the beach and capture the scene in all its glory. It’s tricky shooting, however, and requires some practice in capturing the shimmering ice among the waves washing up on shore. It can be a wet experience for sure!
Other locations that we were able to visit as we headed East, but still stayed on the Southern coast, were Skútafoss, Stokksnes Beach with Mount Vestrahorn, and Hvalnes with Mount Eystrahorn – these are not mere names on a map; they are portals to otherworldly experiences! Some of the most dramatic scenery from the trip, that will forever be etched in our memory was experienced here. While at Stokksnes Beach, waves rolled in against the black sands of the shore while towering Mount Vestrahorn stood tall in defiance against the elements. Winds gently played with the tall grasses that spotted the ebony sand dunes. Venturing into Hvalnes unveiled yet another breathtaking panorama - endless stretches of rocky beaches, reflective ponds, and rocky fields, all embraced by jagged Mount Eystrahorn, a majestic peak shrouded in mystique and grandeur. Its rugged silhouette pierced the sky as though reaching for celestial heights unknown. The tranquility here was palpable and unabashed, while we photographed the last sun rays of the day.
While the country's famous waterfalls like Seljalandsfoss and Gullfoss attract visitors from around the globe, there are lesser-known cascades that hold their own magical allure. So, we prepared for what we labeled “Waterfall Wednesday”. We visited Nykurhylsfoss—nestled deep within an isolated valley shrouded by moss-covered rocks. Its waters flowed gracefully from craggy cliffs above, creating a symphony of sound as water danced its way downstream. Legend has it that local elves frequent this secluded spot to bathe under the shimmering moonlight—a sight reserved for those who believe in magic.


Next up was Folaldafoss—an ethereal waterfall veiled amidst lush greenery, as it plunged off a rugged basalt cliff and into a beautiful, emerald pool below. Lastly, we took a short but somewhat strenuous hike up to Litlanesfoss— Litlanesfoss reveals itself dramatically between basalt columns that resemble ancient giants standing guard over the crystal-clear waters of the falls. This captivating sight evoked a feeling of stepping into another realm where it seemed time stands still, and myths come alive and exuded an otherworldly charm that left us in awe.

Aldeyjarfoss, Goöafoss, Lake Myvatn, Námaskarõ Geothermal area, Dettifoss – these mystical names may seem like a tongue twister for most of us but trust me when I say that they may be difficult to pronounce (I just butchered the names of the majority of our locations the entire trip!) they are truly enchanting locations. As we swung North to experience these areas, the crowds certainly seemed to thin out, and our group was settling in and our local guide Chris, was making sure we were most certainly experiencing the best of Iceland!

Most of the falls we were visiting during the trip were running even bigger than they normally flow, due to the recent rains we were experiencing, and the falls we visited in the following days were no exception to this. Aldeyjarfoss waterfall is surrounded by towering basalt columns and forms a very large pool before it surges down-canyon, which is also lined with basalt columns and other twisted, igneous rock. Many call these falls the most beautiful in Iceland, and it certainly did not disappoint! Goöafoss, a large horseshoe-shaped falls, is known as the "Waterfall of the Gods." Legend has it that when pagan laws were abolished in Iceland during the year 1000 AD, statues representing Old Norse gods were thrown into its cascading waters. We watched, as waters crashed down into the canyon below, creating an ethereal mist that danced and mingled with the foggy conditions we were experiencing.

While in Northern Iceland, we stayed by the shores of Lake Myvatn – a tranquil oasis nestled amidst volcanic landscapes. Sheep grazed in the fields surrounding us and afforded some serene and engrossing backdrops to the most prolific mammal on the Island. We also were able to experience some Northern Lights alongside the lake, which rendered some interesting foregrounds, as we quickly shot the lights before the skies were once again, shrouded with clouds.
Just a short distance away from the lake lies the Námaskarõ Geothermal area where one can witness Mother Nature at her most dramatic. Sulphuric steam rises from bubbling mud pots and vibrant mineral deposits paint the landscape with hues you never thought possible. A beautiful area to shoot a sunrise!
And finally, we could hardly brace ourselves for what awaited at Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall. As its thunderous roar filled our ears and mist tickled our faces, we all agreed the sense of insignificance we felt against nature's mighty force was present. Standing next to these mammoth falls, one’s adrenaline swells and pulses through your body, letting you know, you are truly alive! A euphoric feeling certainly seemed to sweep over the group when we were photographing this wonder!
As our trip neared its end, we stopped at a small farm nestled amidst the enchanting landscape. Farm Braun Mount Hraundrangar, a hidden gem boasting sprawling fields with a backdrop of jagged mountains, that were shrouded in clouds and mist.

Just a stone's throw away lies Glaumbær turf farm - an age-old testament to Icelandic heritage. Stepping foot into this historic site feels like entering a fairytale; its sod-covered roofs whisper tales from centuries past. We wander through ancient rooms adorned with traditional artifacts, transporting us back in time. This living museum unravels the secrets of Icelandic ancestors while providing a glimpse into their simple yet profound way of life.

Continuing our journey around the Island led us to Kolugljúfur gorge, cascading waterfalls plunging into deep ravines surrounded by lush greenery; yet another stunning waterfall!


On our last day, we drove to the coast to visit Hyíteserkur a unique sea stack. Resembling an ancient creature emerging from the depths of Icelandic folklore, Hvítserkur stands alone. Legends tell tales of trolls turned to stone, forever frozen in time within this dramatic formation.

We have another marvel that awaits us just beyond Hvítserkur's reach: Hraunfossar waterfalls. Unlike traditional cascades tumbling down mountainsides, these falls appear almost magically as if they arise directly from beneath us. Thousands upon thousands of crystal-clear rivulets stream forth through moss-covered lava fields—nature's very own masterpiece painted with liquid silver.

Within all these majestic and fascinating sights and experiences, we were also treated to experiencing some of the charm and history of Iceland and its old-world roots. Stopping to experience the famous Icelandic Horses and  staying in hotels in the countryside that were built around working farms. Lodging in small fishing villages along the coast, to eating at the local restaurants whenever possible, this trip certainly allowed us to immerse ourselves a bit into the culture which is unique and friendly and hearty. Certainly, a trip that lived up to “The Best of Iceland’!
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 AUTHOR 

Doug received his first camera, a Kodak Brownie, at the age of six. That’s the day he fell in love with the fact that one could essentially freeze a moment in time with a click of a button. That Brownie met its demise only a few days later, as Doug was running up the backstairs to his house in rural Pennsylvania and he tripped, smashing the camera into a multitude of pieces. Despite being totally devastated, the youngster did not let this incident shatter his zeal for photography! Doug still has the same passion and excitement for capturing moments in time, those special in between times, in his over 20 years as a professional photographer. Doug’s photography is focused on documenting the natural world, people interacting with the natural world, and the magic these moments display. It is with optimism, that his images will inspire the viewer to take action.

Doug’s guiding experience is extensive, with close to 23 years leading trips around the American West, Canada, and down through Belize with youth with varied learning styles and diagnosed learning disabilities.  Doug is a firm believer that the Natural World is the greatest educator if we take the time to listen and observe.

To view some of Doug’s work and to see what he’s been up to, follow along on Instagram @dmelphotogrande.

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BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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