After a few days back in Fairbanks, Alaska, I find myself talking on the phone with my partner, Bria.
"I think I'm having a love affair with Fairbanks," I tell her.
She laughs it off as another foolish thing I say (I say a lot of foolish things), but regardless of any sarcasm in my voice, I'm telling the truth. The quaintness of the town is growing on me. It has its oddities to be sure, but there's a character and hardness to it that I appreciate. On the brim of winter, this is especially true. The air turns frigid–unpleasant at times–and there are more days with heavy cloud coverage than not.
If you can move beyond this there is an abundance of beauty and tranquility. Snow-covered birch trees line city limits and push well beyond yet un-frozen rivers, and when the clouds do dissipate you can see the skyline of one of the world's greatest mountain ranges. On a clear night, and with a little bit of luck, one can witness the magic of the aurora; ultimately the reason why I was here. There's also a fantastic new coffee bar in town which kept me well caffeinated for the shorter days and longer nights.
This past October I ran back-to-back photography tours in search of the northern lights. Or, The Lights, as each of my groups coined them.
These trips include a great variety of travel in search of the aurora. Most nights we have access to a state park recreation cabin as a base. These wood-fired heated cabins provide a wonderful space to keep warm during cold nights. They are imperative and make it that much easier to stay patient; the biggest key to success in our search.
However, there are nights when we spend plenty of time driving, mirroring the travel dynamics of storm chasers on the hunt for mythical winds and electricity. As it turns out, our subject matter is shrouded in just as much mystery. Born of the rubbing of a deer hide or the stealing of misbehaving children, the aurora is shrouded in native lore. To see it appear abruptly out of space and shimmer above is to witness something truly magical.
The first night of each trip started with dinner at Lavelle's Bistro, seemingly a Fairbanks favorite. Regardless of the night or time of year, this restaurant is always busy, and for good reason. I've yet to be disappointed here. Afterward, we drove north on the Elliot Highway hoping for a strong beginning to each tour. Unfortunately, both groups would strike out on night one. Cloud coverage was heavy and despite our best efforts, there was no visibility that would allow us to see any activity.
One of the reserved cabins lies south along the Richardson Highway on Quartz Lake. This would be the venue for night two, and the best night of aurora for the first group. We set up inside and stoked the fire for an hour before beginning to see faint activity across the righthand skyline. The beginning of the northern lights often resembles something hazy, mimicking a lazy, long-form cloud. We set up cameras along the shoreline and waited.
Eventually, the haze turned into something brighter, and in time started to move. Light brown-green turned vivid and the aurora started to dance across the sky in vertical bands. Our entire group yelled to the skies with excitement. This was the reason we were here. We would have to wait a little longer on the second tour, but it was only a matter of time.
For each group, the third night seemed to be a tease. It involved a lot of driving and a lot of near misses. Green bands could be viewed above distant hills on far horizons but we never could quite reach them. Eventually, heavy cloud coverage bled across the sky and removed any chance of viewing.
On this tour, I try to integrate a handful of other photography opportunities. As I mentioned, part of my love affair with this area is the surrounding landscapes. Some are quieter and more peaceful than others. Some are large and prideful, such as the mountains to the south. On both tours, we made the drive to photograph parts of the Delta Range and eastern Alaska Range, along with the river systems that parallel the road leading there. This is one of my favorite parts of the state, and if the conditions allow, I aim to bring guests here. It's as powerful in spirit as it is in nature.
Another evening of this tour is held along the Chena River. It begins by photographing smaller, more intimate landscapes along the river and gives way to enjoying the warm waters of the hot spring. After, I have a tradition of making dinner for guests at a small cabin near mile marker 31. It's a favorite night of mine, as I love showing what can be done with a single-burner stove and a little bit of creativity. Having always been a great entertainer herself, I tell my guests that it's the night my mother comes out in me.
After dinner, we would wait patiently in hopes of seeing the aurora above, but each group opted to pack up early this night and instead hit the road. This worked in favor of the first group, as we had another great evening photographing the roadside near Fairbanks. For the second group, the snow that came early decided that it would stay late.
The latter half of this trip itinerary includes multiple nights of reservations at a cabin on Birch Lake, supplemented with nights driving the long, winding roads north of the city. For the second group, on our second to last night, we photographed at a new-to-me location just south of the Air Force base. 28-Mile Pond delivered in both excitement and foreground, leaving us in a deep two-hour trance as translucent greens and pinks wavered overhead. There really are no words to describe this feeling, but we left knowing it was a night we would never forget.
As the final nights pass on these trips, I have two additional activities I like to include. First, we visit the University of Alaska Fairbanks' Museum of the North. It holds a powerful collection of images and shows a film about the science behind the aurora. Along with this, we take an evening to bring all of our images together for a post-processing session and family-style 'show and tell'. It's a great way to reflect on our time together and to share the images we've all shivered to obtain. It's always a beautiful experience to see the smiles on guests’ faces as we view images on a large screen, and it's an easy way to relive the purity of the moments we shared.
When you see the aurora again after not having so for some time you quickly remember its power. As those green and magenta lights blazed across the northern sky the fire of my love affair for the area shone even brighter.
In my opinion, witnessing this phenomenon is one of the most spiritual experiences a person can have. And to share that with new and old friends alike is something special in its own right.
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