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Trip Report: Bald Eagles of Alaska - November 2022
by Alex Hansen
To witness a mass congregation of wildlife is to witness one of the wonders of the world. Although I haven't been to Africa, I know through numerous stories from past guests that watching the migration of animals is something all-consuming and spiritual. Here in Haines, Alaska, it's not the wild beasts that attract people, but the wondrous and regal Bald Eagle.
In November of each year, thousands of eagles congregate on the shores of the Chilkat River. This is due to a geographic wonder where an alluvial fan from the tributary Tsirku River brings warm waters to their junction. Because of this, part of the Chilkat River forgoes freezing, allowing for a late season run of salmon. Eagles migrate south in search of food, and the Chilkat is where they find it. With the sole focus on feeding, birds line the shore and seemingly forget about those nearby trying to capture their presence and character.
In November of each year, thousands of eagles congregate on the shores of the Chilkat River. This is due to a geographic wonder where an alluvial fan from the tributary Tsirku River brings warm waters to their junction. Because of this, part of the Chilkat River forgoes freezing, allowing for a late season run of salmon. Eagles migrate south in search of food, and the Chilkat is where they find it. With the sole focus on feeding, birds line the shore and seemingly forget about those nearby trying to capture their presence and character.
During the first two weeks of November, I had the pleasure of running Backcountry Journey's first ever tours to photograph these stoic yet quirky birds in Haines, Alaska. Most of this trip would take place within the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, a 48,000-acre area of land made up of the river bottoms of the Chilkat, Klehini, and Tsirku Rivers. And although high water levels and inclement weather kept the population relatively mild, hundreds of birds flocked each day to the Chilkat and nearby trees to feed and perch. It was a marvel to see and photograph these birds up close and to keenly watch their peculiar behaviors.
The itinerary for this tour is more straightforward than others. Since only a small portion of the Chilkat River–at the confluence of the Chilkat and Tsirku–remains clear of ice this is where the majority of the birds spend their day. This meant the radius of travel for our groups was fairly small.
The popular viewing area is known as the Council Grounds, and spans only a few miles. Within this area there are a few sections (each of these only a couple hundred feet in distance) where a lot of the best action takes place. It's truly a game of patience and of being in the right place at the right time. When the action strikes right in front of you it’s one of the most fun and engaging settings to photograph.
The itinerary for this tour is more straightforward than others. Since only a small portion of the Chilkat River–at the confluence of the Chilkat and Tsirku–remains clear of ice this is where the majority of the birds spend their day. This meant the radius of travel for our groups was fairly small.
The popular viewing area is known as the Council Grounds, and spans only a few miles. Within this area there are a few sections (each of these only a couple hundred feet in distance) where a lot of the best action takes place. It's truly a game of patience and of being in the right place at the right time. When the action strikes right in front of you it’s one of the most fun and engaging settings to photograph.
Outside of these areas, eagles roost in snow-lined trees. Wonderful portraits can be made along the river and highway, and the road leading towards the border boasts incredible landscapes.
At this time of year (and generally speaking), food options are limited. For our trips, we began most mornings at a small local coffee shop, the Rusty Compass. It's the best coffee in town–in my limited opinion–and has enough food options to keep us happy and interested. More importantly, it was one of the only restaurants open early enough for our schedule. During my second tour, we added the Bamboo Room to our list of breakfast joints. The food was great but the coffee so-so, although one local would argue otherwise.
After breakfast we would leave for the Council Grounds. Each day my guests had a renewed energy and hope for witnessing early morning activity. In Haines, the eagles tend to steal away, or pirate, food from one another. At times, this can create wonderful opportunities to photograph birds in combat. We're all searching for the perfect image of eagles fighting, talons intertwined and bodies lunging through the air. If you're patient enough you just might see it, and if you're lucky enough you just might make an image of it. Luckily, each tour group was able to witness something like this and walked away with lively images of the scenes. Everyone also walked away knowing just how difficult photographing something like this can be as everything needs to line up perfectly.
At this time of year (and generally speaking), food options are limited. For our trips, we began most mornings at a small local coffee shop, the Rusty Compass. It's the best coffee in town–in my limited opinion–and has enough food options to keep us happy and interested. More importantly, it was one of the only restaurants open early enough for our schedule. During my second tour, we added the Bamboo Room to our list of breakfast joints. The food was great but the coffee so-so, although one local would argue otherwise.
After breakfast we would leave for the Council Grounds. Each day my guests had a renewed energy and hope for witnessing early morning activity. In Haines, the eagles tend to steal away, or pirate, food from one another. At times, this can create wonderful opportunities to photograph birds in combat. We're all searching for the perfect image of eagles fighting, talons intertwined and bodies lunging through the air. If you're patient enough you just might see it, and if you're lucky enough you just might make an image of it. Luckily, each tour group was able to witness something like this and walked away with lively images of the scenes. Everyone also walked away knowing just how difficult photographing something like this can be as everything needs to line up perfectly.
In the afternoons we would drive the Chilkat highway northwest and make images of birds that sat low in the trees, along with other opportunities that presented themselves. We had chances to photograph tight portraits, nature portraits, and birds in flight. Marginal weather throughout both trips made for great opportunities to photograph birds against bright mountain scenes with a brilliant atmosphere. Snow made for beautiful portrait opportunities of birds with soft, white backgrounds. Although the image-making opportunities increased, so did our travel times. The poor weather made for challenging driving and even prompted a flight cancelation for one guest! You win some and lose some in Alaska; that's how it always has been, and that’s how it always will be.
Afternoons were also times to witness and photograph other landscapes around town. The Cathedral peaks sit high above the Haines Highway, a truly striking arena of jagged spires. Additionally, the Chilkoot (not be confused with Chilkat) Lake area holds its own in terms of scenery. Part of traveling to a place like Haines is to see and experience it in its totality. That means taking in the landscape, wildlife, and culture; all of these combine to make up the area's true essence.
Afternoons were also times to witness and photograph other landscapes around town. The Cathedral peaks sit high above the Haines Highway, a truly striking arena of jagged spires. Additionally, the Chilkoot (not be confused with Chilkat) Lake area holds its own in terms of scenery. Part of traveling to a place like Haines is to see and experience it in its totality. That means taking in the landscape, wildlife, and culture; all of these combine to make up the area's true essence.
Each of our days lasted until between 3:00 and 4:00 pm. During the evenings we would take time to decompress from the long days out, review and process images, and enjoy a warm meal together. Dinners were a time for us to connect beyond the worlds of birds and photography. For me, photography is and always will be the vehicle that brings me to these wild places and allows me to foster new and meaningful relationships.
If you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime trip to visit and photograph wildlife in a still remote and adventurous place, this is it. Simply arriving in Haines is challenging enough, but the reward of spending time here with like-minded individuals is immeasurable.
If you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime trip to visit and photograph wildlife in a still remote and adventurous place, this is it. Simply arriving in Haines is challenging enough, but the reward of spending time here with like-minded individuals is immeasurable.
I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to lead our first tour to this region and to have shared this time with truly wonderful people. Walking away with a few proud images, which I know everyone did, is simply the icing on it all.
Learn more about Bald Eagles of Alaska.
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AUTHOR
Alex Hansen is a photographer currently based in Colorado’s Vail Valley. His drive for photography and adventure stems from time spent in our world’s biggest mountain ranges. Alex’s goal with photography is to distill the beauty in the subtle moments we so often experience while out in nature. From extending ridgelines to carved-out river basins he has a passion for capturing these places in a raw and emotional way.
Alex is an active climber and traveler as well. Climbing was his initial foray into the world of adventure–and adventure photography–and he has spent much of his life on mountainsides across North America. Before Alex pursued photography full time he was a project manager for an outdoor digital media publication. This is where he picked up a camera for the first time, helping to build brand stories and share them in an authentic way.
As someone who continually aims to push his own boundaries, Alex is passionate about helping others do the same. He loves discussing everything related to travel, culture, and photography, and how we can use these as vehicles to better understand the world and ourselves. This aspect of the journey is inherent to what he does and he’s excited to share that with others.
Alex is an active climber and traveler as well. Climbing was his initial foray into the world of adventure–and adventure photography–and he has spent much of his life on mountainsides across North America. Before Alex pursued photography full time he was a project manager for an outdoor digital media publication. This is where he picked up a camera for the first time, helping to build brand stories and share them in an authentic way.
As someone who continually aims to push his own boundaries, Alex is passionate about helping others do the same. He loves discussing everything related to travel, culture, and photography, and how we can use these as vehicles to better understand the world and ourselves. This aspect of the journey is inherent to what he does and he’s excited to share that with others.
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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations include Yosemite, Alaska, Yellowstone, Glacier National Park, Hawaii, Utah as well as Botswana & Costa Rica."
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
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