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Trip Report: Great Smoky Mountains in Autumn – October 2021

by Russell Graves
We are deep in the mountains by the time the sun rises. As the landscape lightens, we see the white clouds wisp in and out of the mountain valleys at a speed that’s mesmerizing.
The Smoky Mountains are geologic wonders. Formed some 300 million years ago before the Pangaea split, these mountains were once higher than the Rocky Mountains are today. Through crustal shifting on a global scale, the Smokies heaved from the bowels of the earth and exposed ancient granite, rich gneiss deposits, and antediluvian fossil beds whose age is thought to be nearing half a trillion years old.

The minute mountains are born, the elemental forces of wind and water constantly and incessantly conspire to wear down what tectonic forces steadily built. As a result, the mountains are shorter and less sharp than newer eminences – their peaks rounded by the passage of time as well as all the natural forces that have carved a sliver here and cleaved a sliver there. What’s left is nature’s indiscriminate best: an intersection of woods, water, and rock put together in a way that’s inspired artists, song makers, and photographers alike. These are the Smoky Mountains and this place is magical.
 

Bringing photographers here is always a treat. This past fall, we had both a ‘hiker’ and ‘standard’ version of our Great Smoky Mountains in Autumn trip and on both rotations, guests are eager to see these Southern forests cloaked in their autumnal splendor.
When we first arrive, the color is spotty. At lower elevations greens still dominate but as we climb in elevation through the mountain passes, yellow, red, and orange hues began to dominate. During our time here, we’ll see the leaves morph through their various color phases. Each kind of tree has its timetable for sipping rich chlorophyll from its leaves and as a result, the leaves slowly turn varying shades of autumn colors based on their species. Typically, oaks turn brown and orange, maples turn red, and various other species like sycamore or walnut turn yellow. The pallets of colors are breathtaking.
The trees are a conduit to the heavens. They connect the terrestrial to the blue sky Empyreal above. Rooted in Mother Earth, the arboreal denizens of the largest stand of old-growth forests east of the Mississippi River shine at the subliminal behest of those who carry cameras afield.

From our excursions around the area like Cades Cove, Little River, and Grotto Falls, the nuances of the trees and the woods are subtle. In some places, rhododendrons dominate and don’t provide much color other than green while in other areas like Elkmont, the trees are at their showy best in more ways than merely visual.

The fall woods have a distinct smell about them. Falling leaves and damp conditions initiate the decompositional forces that perpetually feed the soil and all the living creatures therein. Part musky and part sweet, the scent of autumn timber is an earthy, olfactory delight.
Nearby, the Little River lies beneath a canopy of yellow. The water spills over moss-laden rocks and provides a soothing ambient sound that meshes with the rustling of leaves overhead. As springs flow into streams, streams into creeks, and creeks into rivers in the park, the hydrological complex of the Smokies is a complicated one that’s compromised over ever-repeating fractal patterns. Water is a dominant feature of the park and every time you look at a stretch of water, it looks as if it’d make a great picture. Slow exposures are often the rule and the photographic technique makes for soft scenes that border on surreal.
 

Where water exists, wildlife thrives and that rudimentary rule of the natural world applies in the Smokies. Every time we move from one location to another, the group is encouraged to have a telephoto lens ready in case wildlife is spotted. Thought the park, Eastern wild turkeys and whitetail deer are common. Although I lose count, we see a score of black bears during our two weeks in the park.

Most notably, an immense bruin hanging out by a creek and a mother and her triplet cubs traversing across a meadow from a draw to a stand of mature hardwoods. In the valleys, the elk rut is winding down but mature bulls can still be seen and heard as they try to breed any receptive cows.  A barred owl even delighted one group with its extended presence in a hemlock tree. 
It’s the abundance of game that made the woods so desirable for people from modernity to antiquity. Abundant water and trees rich with hickory nuts, acorns, and walnuts provide food for both man and beast, and for centuries, the Cherokees made these mountains their home. Once settled by those of European descent, the early stage pioneers began to build permeant structures from the latent timber of the area.
In areas like Cades Cove and the nearby Cataloochee settlements, cabins and barns still stand over one hundred years after the logs were first felled, notched, and chinked into weather-tite abodes that gave rise to the settlements of the area. While each cabin is similar in construction, each is nuanced enough to make them an interesting study in pioneer-era architecture and we stop and make pictures of many of them.
 

In the area, the pioneer spirit is still alive and it’s the Appalachian Mountain culture that exudes from each of the towns we visit. Bryson City and Cherokee in North Carolina and Gatlinburg and Townsend in Tennessee are autonomous burghs with their own local flair but each is connected by the spirit of the Smokies. That spirit is one of a welcoming and friendly nature. A locale is often defined by its culinary traditions and the Smokies is no different. At the local restaurants in which we dine, guests find a taste that’s to their liking. Whether it’s seared pork belly and Brussel sprouts at the Dancing Bear Bistro or biscuits and gravy at Peter’s Pancakes and Waffles in Cherokee.


While the weather is predictably fickle in the park, for the most part, the rain holds. As such, most mornings or evenings are topped off with a visit to a scenic overlook. When the weather at Clingman’s Dome cooperates, we manage a shot or two at the highest peak in the park. Other times we find places at lower elevations where the mountains stack on top of one another for what seems like infinity. At one such overlook, I hear a church bell ringing from down in the holler. Music has always been a part of these hills and it’s here that an American form of music arose. Taking traditional folk music from Ireland and Scotland, blending hymns, and fusing it all with an African instrument – the banjo – country music was born in this melodic melting pot. Some scholars contend that with country music and jazz as a provenance, the two influences ultimately blend to create rock and roll.
 

As the sun sets over the Smokies, it is fun to imagine the early days and what life was like here. In a way, it’s easy to imagine because of the pristine nature of the park. The presentity of the place is why I am eager to return again and again. It’s that same natural solace that’ll keep others coming back as well.
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 AUTHOR 

Raised in rural Texas, Russell is the product of a modest, blue-collar upbringing, a stalwart work ethic, and a family who put no bounds on his imagination and creativity. When Russell was a junior in high school, he wrote a research paper for his end-of-year English project. The research paper (which he still has today), titled simply Wildlife Photography, earned him an "A" for the project. Still, more importantly, the mini-tome served as a manifesto of sorts that would define his life's work.

When he was 19, he had his first photographs and article published in a magazine. When he was 20, he earned his first magazine cover. By his own admission, the work now appears marginal and sophomoric. It was the spark, however, that ignited the fire to keep him going and perfect his creative craft.

Upon leaving a career in teaching, Russell continued his life's work by capturing the people and places outside of city limits in innovative and authentic ways. In the ensuing years, he continued to build on his experience and churn out content for clients through magazine pieces, advertising campaigns, television projects, and numerous books. In addition, he also worked with a small West Texas town to help them develop a marketing strategy and put together development deals that would bring jobs and prosperity to that little corner of rural Texas. 

Russell came to Backcountry Journeys in the fall of 2017 as a guest. He met owners Russ and Crystal Nordstrand as they were the leaders for the Katmai Bears trip. A few months later, Russ asked Russell if he wanted to guide trips. Since then, Russell has led nearly 500 guests on adventures worldwide. 

Russell says he feels like he's come full circle by combining his love of photography with his teaching ability.

In the media, Russell's been called a rural renaissance man, recognized as one of the top photographers in Texas, and praised by editors, art directors, and audiences alike for his ability to connect people and places through his written, spoken, and photographic stories. He's had nearly a million words published, authored six books, has had thousands of images grace the pages of magazines and advertisements all over the world (including about 600 magazine covers), is an in-demand speaker, has photographed some of the most prominent people in our country, and is the owner of two businesses. Still, he insists that his most significant accomplishments fall under the heading of father, husband, brother, son, and friend. 

When he's not in the field teaching or doing projects for one of his clients, Russell is found on his beloved Hackberry Farm driving his tractor and doing tasks that benefit the land and her denizens therein. He now lives a mile from the small stock farm on which he was raised. Black dirt and creek water are a powerful poultice. 

His parents are still proud of him

You can see Russell’s work and portfolio on his webpage at www.russellgraves.com

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"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.

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BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations worldwide.
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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