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Trip Report: Yellowstone Wildlife Safari – October 2019
by Russell Graves

Yellowstone National Park is exciting in any season. No matter the time of year it is an exciting place to be. Each natural pattern is full of nuance and changes daily so there is a good chance that what you see in Yellowstone today will change tomorrow.

Even though the weather was stable when everyone arrived, it would soon change. In the high country, winter already struck for the season and in a few hours, a big winter storm was expected.  


Russell Graves

Tuesday evening started like all trips start. The group met for a quick orientation meeting and then we were off to one of my favorite restaurants in Bozeman – Montana Ale Works. The local eatery features rustic appointments and is built into an old train depot just off the main downtown corridor. The food featured is typical American fare with a Montana take and offers such items as elk and beef meatloaf or bison potstickers. Their food is simply delicious. Throughout dinner we talked about the week’s plans and individual photographic aspirations and prepared for what Mother Nature had to offer.

Russell Graves

Ice and snow can be a formidable adversary and on the first day of our trip we faced plenty of it. Leaving Bozeman well before sunrise, wintry conditions already plagued southern Montana. Road travel was slow and arduous. In fact, the interstate closed just after we passed on through Livingston. It was still dark and snowy when we rolled into Gardiner that morning. After a quick breakfast in town, we were ready to see what Yellowstone offered up this day.

At sunrise, we rolled past the Roosevelt Gate to the pay kiosk at Yellowstone’s north gate. The cordial, yet concerned, ranger broke the news to us: all of the roads in Yellowstone are closed due to weather. Here we are on a photo trip and we can’t take photos. Furthermore, since it was still so early in the morning we still couldn’t check into our hotel rooms. Six guests, two guides, and two GMC Yukons loaded with camera gear and no place to go.

Now it would be easy for the guides and guests to become frustrated in the face of the challenges provided but we improvised. With the generous aid of the Best Western in Gardner, they gave us a big hotel suite in which to crash. The suite was warm and roomy and provided a perfect backdrop for some educational presentations we had planned for the trip. A couple of hours of telling stories, showing pics, and answering questions was the perfect consolation for being snowbound.


During our downtime, my co-guide, PJ, and I headed out for a few minutes to scout while the guests stayed in the suite and prepped their gear. While wildlife abounds in the park it often spills outside the park’s boundaries and within minutes, we found a harem of elk cows being watched closely by a mature herd bull. While our wildlife safari isn’t officially started, elk at the edge of Gardiner is a pretty good consolation.  


Russell Graves

The elk were plentiful, active, and strung across a broad hill that flanked the Yellowstone River. When we first arrived at the herd, the bull was lying in the snow. Soon, however, he rose to his feet and put on a display of dominance for some satellite bulls that were nearby.

Halfway through our elk photo session I noticed that people were returning to the vehicles momentarily and then getting back out. I, too, was cold and for good reason: snow was everywhere, the temperature was in the teens, and a stiff breeze made wind chills in the sub zero range. However, we mustered on.

Everyone was having a great time and things got better when we learned that the five mile stretch of road from Gardiner to Mammoth Hot Springs opened. It was late in the afternoon but we decided to head into the park and visit one of the most iconic thermal features in the park.
 

Smelling the sulphuric gasses, I knew we were flanking Mammoth Hot Springs although steam obscured the feature. The springs are fantastic. Layer upon layer of calcium carbonate built up over thousands of years makes for interesting terrace formations while thermophilic bacteria tints the water an impressive shade of amber. 


Russell Graves

Nearly half an hour after our arrival, we pack up again and cruise back towards Gardiner for the last hour or so of sunlight. While our drive was brief, it yielded opportunities for more elk and some pronghorns. Dinner at the Wonderland Cafe was lively with conversation as weather was the big subject of the evening. Day one was in the books.

Overnight the clouds cleared and the temperatures dropped even more. Now below zero and with even more roads open, we headed into the fabled Lamar Valley in search of wildlife. The valley was nearly empty except for a few pronghorn antelope. Maybe because of the weather or perhaps the moon cycle but for whatever reason few animals were out this morning. Therefore we spent our time photographing the valley that was beautifully cloaked in snow. 


Russell Graves

Russell Graves

We were nearing our turnaround spot when we stopped for a quick bathroom break. About the time everyone exited the vehicles, the valley came alive with the echoes of wolves howling in the foothills. We couldn’t see them or photograph them, but just hearing them sing their ancient song proved to be one of the trip’s highlights.

Mammoth Hot Springs was our lunch destination so we headed there and prepped for the afternoon shoot over in the Hayden Valley.

After a drive up the valley proved mildly successful, we persevered and was rewarded with some nice bison in the snow photos as well as a coyote who was hunting for mice right off the side of the road. We were the first to spot her and spent the better part of an hour shooting pictures of her engaging behavior. In addition, the elk were especially active and did not disappoint on day three of our adventure. 


Russell Graves

Night came and even colder temperatures descended on Yellowstone. At first light, we entered the Swan Lake Meadow where the temperature was -14 degrees Fahrenheit. Frigid by any standards yet the landscapes were stunning. Add steam and hoarfrost to the mix and we spent the morning taking otherworldly landscape shots. In addition, we found bison snow plowing for forage while frost and snow covered the beasts. 

Russell Graves

In the park’s interior, we make our way to Old Faithful and photograph her eruption. I’ve seen the venerable geyser multiple times but it does not disappoint. The guests weren’t disappointed either. 
Russell Graves

Nearly two hours after we arrived we headed to lunch in West Yellowstone and then to the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center. The center is a fantastic place to see all kinds of indigenous wildlife up close. With their newly opened otter exhibit, the center is even more engaging and endearing.

After heading back towards Gardiner, we spent the last of the day photographing Tower Fall. We even caught a glimpse of a black bear along the way.

Closing in on nightfall, we headed back to our base camp. Winding through the foothills is a cathartic experience and a chance to revel in nature. Around every curve is a chance to see something new. That’s when we saw a beautiful bull elk perfectly silhouetted against an evening sky. It turns out, elk were the star of the show all week. Just when we thought we were finished photographing elk, they would show up again displaying new and dynamic behavior.


Russell Graves

The last morning of the trip we headed out to the Lamar Valley once again. As we approached the valley, it was shrouded in an icy fog. We pulled over to photograph the scene when a group of bison came across the river and slipped through the frosty sagebrush. In no time, it seemed, the bison roamed away and we headed upriver to look for more opportunities.  

Russell Graves

Instead of waiting where the bison were, he headed over to Slough Creek in hopes of seeing more animals. The wolf watchers were out in full force and while we knew that the canines were in the neighborhood, they were too far off to photograph.  Therefore, we moved on.

Only a few miles away from our trip ending, Yellowstone provided us with one last photo opportunity. A beautiful coyote working its way across a ridgetop with a beautiful background behind. After it left, the group stood there in awe of such a magnificent place.  


Russell Graves

Nowhere else in North America can you find a diversity of readily accessible wildlife and landscapes that you’ll find in Yellowstone. A week before the trip we expected mild fall temperatures and stable weather. Winter often comes early to Yellowstone and Mother Nature did her best to thwart us. However, with eager and flexible guests and a determination to succeed, our Yellowstone adventure paid off.
Russell Graves







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 AUTHOR 

Raised in rural Texas, Russell is the product of a modest, blue-collar upbringing, a stalwart work ethic, and a family who put no bounds on his imagination and creativity. When Russell was a junior in high school, he wrote a research paper for his end-of-year English project. The research paper (which he still has today), titled simply Wildlife Photography, earned him an "A" for the project. Still, more importantly, the mini-tome served as a manifesto of sorts that would define his life's work.

When he was 19, he had his first photographs and article published in a magazine. When he was 20, he earned his first magazine cover. By his own admission, the work now appears marginal and sophomoric. It was the spark, however, that ignited the fire to keep him going and perfect his creative craft.

Upon leaving a career in teaching, Russell continued his life's work by capturing the people and places outside of city limits in innovative and authentic ways. In the ensuing years, he continued to build on his experience and churn out content for clients through magazine pieces, advertising campaigns, television projects, and numerous books. In addition, he also worked with a small West Texas town to help them develop a marketing strategy and put together development deals that would bring jobs and prosperity to that little corner of rural Texas. 

Russell came to Backcountry Journeys in the fall of 2017 as a guest. He met owners Russ and Crystal Nordstrand as they were the leaders for the Katmai Bears trip. A few months later, Russ asked Russell if he wanted to guide trips. Since then, Russell has led nearly 500 guests on adventures worldwide. 

Russell says he feels like he's come full circle by combining his love of photography with his teaching ability.

In the media, Russell's been called a rural renaissance man, recognized as one of the top photographers in Texas, and praised by editors, art directors, and audiences alike for his ability to connect people and places through his written, spoken, and photographic stories. He's had nearly a million words published, authored six books, has had thousands of images grace the pages of magazines and advertisements all over the world (including about 600 magazine covers), is an in-demand speaker, has photographed some of the most prominent people in our country, and is the owner of two businesses. Still, he insists that his most significant accomplishments fall under the heading of father, husband, brother, son, and friend. 

When he's not in the field teaching or doing projects for one of his clients, Russell is found on his beloved Hackberry Farm driving his tractor and doing tasks that benefit the land and her denizens therein. He now lives a mile from the small stock farm on which he was raised. Black dirt and creek water are a powerful poultice. 

His parents are still proud of him

You can see Russell’s work and portfolio on his webpage at www.russellgraves.com

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All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLCs - Copyright 2024
BACKCOUNTRY JOURNEYS
"Backcountry Journeys offers guests the unique opportunity to explore our natural world from behind their own lens. We run a selection of hand-crafted Photo Tours, Workshops & Safaris connecting passionate people to exceptional experiences. Locations include Yosemite, Alaska, Yellowstone, Glacier National Park, Hawaii, Utah as well as Botswana & Costa Rica."
All Images & Content are property of Backcountry Journeys Photography Tours, Workshops & Safaris LLC - Copyright 2024
CONTACT US
Monday-Friday
8am to 4pm Mountain Time
928-478-1521
adventure@backcountryjourneys.com

TRIP CATALOG

Download our Trip Catalog for detailed information on our many destinations for photography tours, workshops, and safaris.

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