In the Realm of Giza: A Black Leopard Photography Journey in Laikipia, Kenya 

There are safaris you enjoy, safaris you remember, and then there are safaris that permanently recalibrate what you thought was possible in the wild. This recent photography journey I hosted with Backcountry Journeys into the Laikipia Wilderness of Kenya firmly belongs in that last category. Even as I write this, I’m still trying to fully process what we experienced because it wasn’t just exceptional, it was genuinely extraordinary.

This trip was designed with one clear focus: leopards, and more specifically, the elusive and legendary black leopard. Laikipia is one of the very few places on Earth where melanistic leopards can be seen with some consistency, and even then, nothing is ever guaranteed. Wildlife doesn’t follow scripts. And yet, day after day, this landscape delivered in ways that exceeded even my highest hopes.

By the end of the trip, we had observed over 11 different leopards, and we saw the same black leopard Giza every single day. Some days we saw her twice: once in the golden calm of morning and again as the light softened in the evening. For a wildlife photographer, that alone would make this a dream safari. But this trip went far beyond numbers.

Living Inside Leopard Territory 

One of the most unique aspects of this journey was our camp. We weren’t just near leopard habitat we were situated directly within Giza’s territory. This is the kind of setup that changes everything. Instead of rushing out to “find” wildlife, we were already immersed in their world. At times we would only drive a minute or so from camp and we’ve already found 2 or 3 leopards. 😂

Giza didn’t just tolerate our presence; she seemed to weave us into her daily rhythm. She moved through the area with confidence and calm, sometimes passing right through camp. One night, I had a moment I’ll never forget: stepping out of my lodging and realizing that Giza was right outside my door. Not fleeting. Not distant. Just there silent, powerful, completely at ease.
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That kind of proximity isn’t something you can manufacture. It comes from deep local knowledge, ethical guiding, and an understanding of how to exist respectfully in wild spaces. It’s exactly the philosophy Backcountry Journeys is built on.

The Moment That Took Our Breath Away 

Every safari has a highlight moment that crystallizes the entire experience. For this trip, it came when Giza appeared with her two cubs, and then, impossibly, they posed together.
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Anyone who has spent time photographing leopards knows how rare this is. Leopards are solitary by nature. Black leopards even more so. Cubs are typically hidden, fleeting, half-seen in thick cover. But here they were, together in the open, calm and curious, allowing us time to compose, to breathe, to truly see them.

Cameras clicked, of course but there was also silence. The kind that happens when everyone knows they are witnessing something profoundly special. For many on this trip, this was a once-in-a-lifetime scene. For me, as a host who has led safaris around the world, it was one of the most meaningful wildlife encounters I’ve ever experienced.

Rare Sightings Beyond Our Wildest Expectations 

While leopards were the focus, Laikipia had more stories to tell. One of the most surprising sightings of the trip was striped hyenas, a species that is rarely seen and even more rarely photographed. Spotting them felt like a quiet gift from the ecosystem, a reminder that this landscape still holds mysteries.

We also spent time at watering holes while we enjoyed lunch, watching massive elephant herds gather sometimes dozens at a time. These moments were slow and powerful: dust rising, trunks intertwining, calves splashing while elders stood guard. The scale and intimacy of these scenes made for extraordinary photographic opportunities.
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And then there were the lions. Not just lone individuals, but full prides, relaxed and regal in the open plains. Add to that two different species of zebras, an astonishing diversity of birdlife, and more plains game than I could reasonably list without turning this into a species catalog. This was a leopard trip that somehow turned into a masterclass in East African biodiversity.

When the Weather Becomes a Collaborator 

As photographers, we’re always negotiating with light and weather. On this journey, it felt like the elements were working with us rather than against us.

The weather cooperated beautifully cool mornings, comfortable days, and skies that seemed to know exactly when to put on a show. We were treated to multiple sunsets accompanied by rainbows, creating some of the most dramatic wildlife and landscape compositions I’ve ever photographed. Leopards silhouetted against storm-lit skies. Giraffes walking beneath arcs of color. Scenes that felt almost unreal in their perfection.

These weren’t rushed sightings. We had time. Time to wait for the light to shift. Time to experiment creatively. Time to simply sit and absorb the moment.

Why This Was One of the Best Safaris I’ve Ever Hosted 

I’ve hosted many safaris, and I don’t say this lightly: this was one of the best trips I’ve ever led.

It wasn’t just the frequency of sightings, or even the rarity of the animals we encountered. It was the quality of the experience. The sense of being deeply embedded in a wild place. The rhythm of days shaped by animal movement rather than schedules. The shared excitement of a group that knew, day after day, that they were part of something special.

Backcountry Journeys is built around creating these kinds of experiences intimate, ethical, immersive, and photography-focused. This trip embodied everything we strive for. From our camp placement to our guides’ expertise to the patience we allowed for meaningful encounters, every element came together seamlessly.

As I go through proof reading this trip report, I realized I left out one of the biggest highlights of the trip… WILD DOGS. Let me specify that some species of animals you witness in Africa is fleeting and brief, sometimes not even getting an opportunity for a “proof of life shot” but these wild dogs we get to photograph at ground level, outside of the vehicle, giving us the best opportunity possible. It’s truly indescribable having a pack of wild dogs walking right towards you. You really have to come see it for yourself.  

Why You Should Join a Future Black Leopard photo safari 

Black leopards are among the most sought-after subjects in wildlife photography, and for good reason. They are rare, beautiful, and endlessly captivating. But seeing one isn’t just about luck—it’s about being in the right place, at the right time, with the right people. We are blessed to have the relationship we do with our local vendors because Giza is perfect not just in the way she looks but she cooperates and is comfortable with our presence.

Laikipia offers that opportunity. And when paired with Backcountry Journeys’ approach small groups, deep local partnerships, and a focus on truly experiencing the wilderness rather than racing through it the result is something truly special.

If you’ve ever dreamed of photographing a black leopard, of waking up in the heart of their territory, of watching cubs grow and play, of witnessing wildlife under rainbow-lit skies this is the trip for you.

This journey reminded me why I do what I do. Why I return to Africa again and again. Why I believe so strongly in creating experiences that go beyond checklists and into the realm of the unforgettable.
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Giza gave us her time, her presence, and her trust. And for that, I’ll always be grateful.
I can’t wait to return and I hope you’ll join me on the next one.