Trip Report: Patagonia: Fitz Roy & Cerro Torre - April 2025

I have often joked with friends that I am a “mountain connoisseur”. The same way a sommelier might think of wine, or a movie critic dissect a film, I can break down the beauty of any particular peak. It is of course, a useless skill, but what can I say, I just love mountains. I am particularly drawn to mountains with sharp summits and peaks that maintain their aesthetic shape from any side. Unique colors and geology are always considered. These are some of the factors that make the great mountains great. There are so many amazing mountains around the world: Matterhorn, Ama Dablam, Denali, etc. Any ranking of the world’s best mountains is going to have some level of subjectivity, but I think any list would be incomplete without two mountains: Mount Fitzroy and Cerro Torre. 

Fitzroy and Cerro Torre are the kind of peaks you dream of. Massive granite spires rising unobstructed out of the lowlands of southern Patagonia. These peaks have inspired climbers and photographers for generations. It is no wonder the clothing company Patagonia uses an image of Fitzroy as its logo. A decade ago I spent over a month backpacking in the shadow of these mountains, so I was more than excited to return with a group of photographers for Backcountry Journeys. 

Our adventure began in the small city of El Calafate in Argentinian Patagonia. From there it is a three hour drive to the town of El Chaltén. El Chaltén is a charming little town tucked against the foothills and the launching pad for all things Fitzroy and Cerro Torre. A community where climbers, trekkers, and photographers roam the streets waiting for a weather window to head into the mountains. This trip is unlike any of our other trips, we hike and camp right at the foot of these great peaks, allowing us easy access to the best photo locations at the best times. 

Our first day in Chaltén we photographed the iconic Chorrillo de Salto waterfall. This was our first taste of the autumn color that we would photograph over the next week. The Lenga and Ñire trees that inhabit this area turn a vibrant shade of red, orange, and yellow during mid April. We couldn’t believe just how colorful it was and how perfect our timing was. We constantly remarked that the colors were reminiscent of New England with the added benefit of Cerro Torre and Fitzroy towering above. 

After a delicious meal in town, we turned in early to get a good night's rest for the upcoming trek. Our first hike would be to the Poincenot camp which sits right below Mount Fitzroy. As we worked our way up the valley, Fitzroy slowly emerged from the clouds giving us our first full view of the magnificent peak. Fitzroy is one of those mountains that is just so impressive in person. The summit and all the sub peaks of massif dominate the skyline. The rest of the hike went slowly as we stopped as often as we could for photo opportunities.  

Our campground was not the normal public one, but the private commercial site a few hundred meters away. This allowed us to have a quiet, personal experience. Our tents were comfortable, clean, and set up for us before we arrived. The communal dome eating tent was a great place to hang out, have a cup of coffee, or enjoy one of the cook's great meals. I think we were all blown away by the quality of the food we ate in the backcountry. The fresh meats, cheeses, fruits, and vegetables were extra impressive knowing everything had to be hiked up to camp. 

Over the next few days, we hiked and photographed all around the area. We made the steep hike up to Laguna De Los Tres, coming over the ridge right as the summit broke out of the clouds for a few minutes. We wandered in the forests, looking for compositions among the lenga trees. We shot waterfalls and reflections full of fall color. After our time at Poincenot camp, we made our way back to town for a much needed shower and night in a hotel.  

The next morning we shouldered our packs and hit the trail again, this time we would be heading to the next valley over, camping below Cerro Torre. Cerro Torre is only a few hundred meters shorter than Fitzroy, but this narrow granite spire is every bit iconic as its next door neighbor. Its rich climbing history, tumultuous weather, and steep walls make it a peak worth seeing in person. Unfortunately, due to its location right on the edge of the ice field, it can be difficult to actually see it. Our mountain guide Christian told us the summit is out of the clouds only about 20% of the time. So it was a huge relief that morning on the trail when we crested over the moraine and I saw its distinct ice capped summit above the low hanging clouds.  

For the next two nights staying at Torre camp, we wandered all over the valley photographing its beauty. We climbed the moraine to the Maestri viewpoint, photographing the glacier and icebergs below. Christian showed us on the map just how far back the glacier has receded in the last ten years. A haunting reminder that we live in a fragile and changing world.  

On our last morning we hiked through the predawn light back to the shores of Laguna Torre. When we arrived we saw a perfectly still lake and a perfectly clear view of Cerro Torre, Cerro Egger, and Cerro Standhart. It was an incredible gift to end the trip on. We filled our memory cards to the brink that morning. 

We made the long, but gentle hike back to El Chaltén, happy and tired. Before we loaded up the van to drive back to El Calafate, we had to make a pit stop for some much deserved treats at the famous Domo Blanco ice cream shop. This trip is truly a great adventure into one of the worlds best landscapes. Our group bonded over a shared passion for photography, mountains, and maybe a little bit of “Type 2 Fun”. Thanks to all the guests who came and made the trip great!