Trip Report: Southwest Monsoon: Grand Canyon Country - July 2024

I started my photography journey in the realm of landscapes. I’ve always been attracted to the wild, diverse, and incredible scenes created throughout our natural world, and being able to capture them through the lens of a camera is something special, to say the least. Landscapes are what really got me into photography and catalyzed a lifelong passion. 

I had no idea of knowing it but when I moved to Montana, about 6 years ago, that was all about to change. Of course, America’s fourth largest state is chock-full of top-tier landscapes, it is big sky country after all, but what really stood out to me was the sheer abundance and diversity of wildlife. I’ve always loved animals, but for some reason had never really put much thought into photographing them. Since moving here and spending countless days in the greater Yellowstone ecosystem and beyond, I started experimenting with wildlife photography and it all just clicked. I can confidently say that I am now utterly addicted to wildlife photography. If I’m all alone in the wilderness observing and photographing a wild animal, I’m in my happy place.

But just because you’ve decided to go all in on something doesn’t mean you should never mix it up, get a different flavor of creative juice flowing, and reignite an old flame that has perhaps slightly dimmed. When I got the assignment to run the ‘Southwest Monsoon: Grand Canyon Country’ workshop with Backcountry Journeys I was beyond excited. This was my chance to revisit my photography origins and photograph some stunning desert landscapes.

I have always loved the deserts of the American Southwest, having spent countless hours photographing, hiking, rafting, camping, and exploring their geologic wonders, and I was more than ready to return to these magical lands. It was time to trade the super-telephoto for a nice wide-angle zoom lens and capture the light of the desert.

This is a truly special and unique workshop designed to align with the seasonal monsoon storms that occur annually in this part of the world. These powerful meteorological events transform the landscape and environment producing a massive percentage of the annual rainfall in short and intense bursts. If you want to photograph stunning storm cells, lightning strikes, and dynamic atmospheric conditions on top of a desert wonderland then this is the trip for you.

Unfortunately, on this year’s departure we weren’t able to experience the very best of the monsoons, they are fickle beasts after all. Nonetheless, we had an absolutely fantastic trip, and I think we were all able to capture images that we were very happy with. It’s hard to have a bad time when you’re exploring such an incredible place with such a fun and lively group of passionate photographers.

Our trip started in Flagstaff, Arizona. Over the next several days we would be traveling to icons of the southwest such as Monument Valley, locations around Page, Arizona and Lake Powell, and of course the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.

On July 28th, our group met up for orientation. After getting to know one another and going over the details of the adventure ahead we headed out for a lovely dinner, and then hit they hay early in preparation for the long and fruitful days that ley before us. Our epic journey was about to begin…

The next morning, we woke up early. We had a lot of ground to cover and plenty of photography opportunities along the way. Our final destination for the day was Monument Valley within the Navajo Nation. We packed into the van with all of our luggage and gear and set out for the day’s sunrise shoot.

Our first stop was a short drive outside of Flagstaff just outside of the entrance to Sunset Crater National Monument. There is a lovely meadow here that opens up to the west directly facing the stunning San Francisco Peaks that lie due north of Flagstaff. We arrived early, giving us plenty of time to set up and find our compositions. When the sun finally rose, we were treated with stellar conditions. We had a ceiling of unique and colorful clouds, and the peaks were beautifully illuminated by the soft, early morning light. We stayed here for a while as the light slowly evolved, ever-changing the scene before us. After a great sunrise shoot on day one, we continued on our way. Not a bad start to the trip!

As we made our way northeast, we avoided the hustle bustle of the interstate and opted to take the scenic route driving through both Sunset Crater and Wupatki National Monuments. Sunset Crater is a hidden gem that consists of otherworldly volcanic landscapes full of black volcanic stone and sand as well as craters and a myriad of other unique geologic features.

If you continue along this scenic drive, you’ll eventually end up in Wupatki National Monument which is a stunning landscape in its own right and home to several ancient structures and dwellings. These complex structures were constructed by ancestors of the contemporary Pueblo communities in the early 1100s when the climate here was quite different and much more temperate. We explored the largest of these structures located just behind the visitor center which acted as a communal gathering place and center of trade for visitors from far-off lands. After our journey into the ancient past, we continued down the road towards the next leg of our journey.

After a few hours in the van, we entered the Navajo Nation and ultimately arrived in Monument Valley. We would be exploring this incredible landscape over the next day and a half.

We had a bit of time to spare before we could check into our hotel, the Gouldings Lodge, and decided to drive to a few scenic overlooks and vantage points in the area. Of course, we had to visit the iconic Forrest Gump Road where one of the most iconic scenes in recent cinema history was filmed. We snapped some images here and then on our way back stopped at a scenic overlook with an expansive view of the valley. After this, we checked into the lodge, took a quick break to unpack and relax, grabbed a bite to eat, and then headed out for our guided sunset tour in Monument Valley.

Our local Navajo guide was Bruce, and he was quite the character. He took us on a lovely drive through the valley cracking jokes and sharing fascinating information along the way. We were in an open-air vehicle which was great for taking in the views and snapping off some images every now and then. If you’re going to visit Monument Valley, I highly recommend using a Navajo guide as this allows you to visit parts of the park not open to the general public.

We explored several locations on our drive including a wonderful stop at Big Hogan, a natural amphitheater with an eroded skylight at the top. While here, we were able to snap some nice shots, but the true highlight was listening to tribal songs consisting of both flutes and vocals. It was amazing to hear this music resonate off the concave stone walls.

We continued on our way and eventually ended up at the classic valley view overlook with the iconic mitten buttes and Merrick butte formations front and center. When one thinks of Monument Valley this is often the scene that comes to mind. We stayed here for a while as the sun set and the golden hour slowly faded into the blue hour and beyond. After a lovely sunset shoot full of color, we headed back to the lodge and settled in for the night.

The following morning, we arose quite early and met up with Bruce again, but this time it was for a sunrise tour. He picked us up right outside of our rooms and we headed out to witness more magic in Monument Valley. We drove through the darkness and were barely able to make out the silhouettes of the many formations throughout the valley. We headed straight for Artist’s Point and watched the sunlight slowly start to engulf the landscape.

We then headed to the iconic Totem Pole formation, an extremely narrow and tall sandstone structure that seems to defy the laws of physics. It towers above the surrounding landscape hanging in a perpetual state of delicacy. We captured some nice images here with textured sand dunes in the foreground and then continued on.  We stopped at a few more spots including the Ear of the Wind and then concluded our drive. We thanked Bruce for his guidance and knowledge and then packed up our luggage and gear. It was time to head west towards our next destination: Page, Arizona.

After a scenic drive through the desert, we arrived in Page. We decided to explore the Lake Powell and Glenn Canyon region just northwest of town before checking into our rooms. Eventually, we checked in and took an afternoon break. After a nice rest, it was time to head out for dinner. We grabbed a bite to eat in town and then set out for our sunset destination: Horseshoe Bend.

Horseshoe Bend is one of the most well-known and iconic landscapes of the American Southwest and for good reason. Heck, it’s literally on the massive billboard when you drive across state lines into Arizona. Just below Glenn Canyon Damn, the Colorado River flows around a massive bend in the surrounding cliffs forming an absolutely incredible scene. We arrived here quite early to secure our spots as the overlook can be extremely crowded, and settled in. I made sure to bring some water, Gatorade, and snacks down with us as it was quite hot at this time of day. Eventually, the sun lowered in the sky, and we were able to capture some really nice images with the classic sun star kissing the horizon.


After this, we headed back to our hotel. Some of the group decided to stay in and get some sleep while the rest of us headed out to photograph the night sky near the New Wave. This is a short drive outside of town and even though there was a little bit of light pollution we were able to capture the Milky Way rising above the desert. We were also able to practice our light painting skills illuminating the foreground below the stars. After everyone was satisfied with their shots we headed back to the hotel and hit the hay.

The following day we were able to sleep in a bit and catch up on some rest. We then headed out towards our objective for the morning: Antelope Canyon X. This is one of the many slot canyons in the region and it was one of the destinations I was looking forward to the most. If you’ve never experienced a slot canyon for yourself words and even images simply can’t do it justice. The way ambient light flows through the intricate canyon, reflecting and bouncing from wall to wall, is truly special. Slot canyons are remarkable geological formations and the experience of walking through them and capturing images is something every passionate nature photographer needs to experience.

We slowly made our way through the two main canyons in this area capturing plenty of images as we went. Luckily, we were on a dedicated photo tour, so we were able to bring our tripods and spend some extra time in each canyon. Shooting here can be difficult due to the number of people walking through such a tight space, but our group executed a masterclass in patience and teamwork. We would each find a shot, wait for the crowds to disperse, and then enjoy some peaceful moments of undisturbed photography.

After we concluded our tour through these enchanting slot canyons we loaded back into the van and began to make our way to the final destination of the workshop: The North Rim of the Grand Canyon. In my opinion, this is the perfect place to conclude such a trip. After experiencing very hot temperatures and desolate environments at lower elevations we were about to climb up nearly 5,000 vertical feet to the sky island, and desert oasis that is the North Rim. Up here the average temperature is roughly 20 degrees cooler, and we were welcomed to lush forests and meadows. The transformation between the lifeless desert down low and the vibrant environment up high is truly remarkable. You might as well be on a different planet.

Once we had climbed up to the top of the plateau, we checked into the Grand Canyon Lodge, which is perched right on the edge of the canyon cliffs. We then settled into our cozy cabins spread throughout a ponderosa forest. We would be staying here for the next three nights, and I couldn’t be more excited.

When we were all settled in, we grabbed some dinner at the dining room in the lodge with massive windows looking out over the expansive view. We then gathered our gear and headed out for a sunset shoot at Point Imperial. We witnessed a pretty solid sunset here, but little did we know that this was merely a warmup for the stellar shoots that awaited us over the next couple days.

The following morning, we awoke early and met up at the van with all of our gear. It was still pitch black and the group was tired, but we were all eager for the first shoot of the day. I handed out muffins, snacks, ice-cold water, Gatorade, and some coffees with excitement as we were about to witness the sunrise at what is likely my favorite location on the entire North Rim: Cape Royal.

Although Cape Royal isn’t located too far away from the lodge as the crow flies, it takes nearly an hour to drive there due to the complex topography of the area. You are on the edge of one of the largest canyons on earth after all.

After driving out through the darkness we arrived at the trailhead as the first traces of light started to dance on the horizon and began the roughly 15–20-minute walk out to the main overlook. We arrived at the overlook with plenty of time to spare and everyone was able to get set up and find some compositions they liked. Before we knew it the rising sun burst into the sky behind some horizontal streaks of clouds. A few of us quickly switched over to our telephoto lenses and managed to capture some awesome shots of the sun just above the horizon.

Then we promptly switched back to our wide-angle lenses and focused in on the classic Cape Royal shot. We all managed to capture some nice images portraying the eastward facing cliff walls of the cape illuminated by the rising sun and taking on hues of yellow, orange, and red. I think I might be partial to sunsets at this location, but this was an absolutely beautiful sunrise to say the least.

When everyone was satisfied, we wrapped up our sunrise shoot and headed back to the lodge for a nice hearty buffet breakfast. After several long and productive days of shooting, we decided to take it easy and get some much-needed rest. We took the next several hours off and had some time to either explore the lodge or simply relax. Later in the afternoon, we held a small post-processing session for anyone who was interested.

After some well-deserved rest we all met up for an early dinner and then set out for the evenings sunset shoot at another stellar spot. This time we were bound for Walhalla overlook and we were about to get our first real glimpse of the monsoon in action.

We arrived at the overlook with relatively overcast skies and my hopes for the shoot were honestly pretty low. I was worried we weren’t going to get much light at all due to the clouds, but we decided to stick it out and try our luck. You never know what’s going to happen.

Just before sunset, a thin strip of orange and red light broke through the cloud layer and perfectly illuminated a band of cliffs across the canyon. Luck was on our side, and we managed to get some great shots.

After the sunlight had faded and the blue hour began, we stuck around just a bit longer to watch an approaching storm make its way over the canyon. We were able to see low-hanging clouds start to pour over the edge of the canyon walls like an atmospheric waterfall cascading down into the earth. Eventually the light all but faded and we headed in for the evening. A seemingly hopeless shoot had turned into something magical, and the monsoon had finally arrived. The storm would continue long into the night.

Upon returning to the lodge, a few of us sat out on the deck and continued to watch the storm develop and slowly make its way across the land. We witnessed countless lightning strikes far off in the distance above the south rim. It was truly remarkable to see these bolts of light illuminate the night sky from such great distances. We were able to observe this passing storm for quite some time until it faded off into the west. It was time to head in and get some sleep.

The following morning, we were up and at it in the darkness again. By this point early mornings and late evenings had become the norm. We were tired but the group was motivated to make the most of our time in such a special place. Today we were heading back to Point Imperial but this time to catch the sunrise. We were treated, once again, to some absolutely stellar conditions and witnessed a classic Grand Canyon sunrise with beautiful colors and interesting cloud formations in the sky.

We decided to take it easy for the rest of the day once the best light had all but faded. We returned back to the lodge for another great breakfast and then went out for a scenic drive to some of the other prominent overlooks of the North Rim. We weren’t necessarily focused on capturing top-notch images in the harsh midday light but rather enjoyed a break from the cameras and focused on simply exploring and enjoying our surroundings.

That evening, we had more stormy and overcast weather and after closely analyzing the local cloud cover and the movement of some storm cells it was clear that we likely weren’t going to get a great sunset. We opted to just hang out at the lodge for the afternoon and evening to hopefully catch some storm action and lightning.

Sure enough, late in the afternoon we started to get some storm activity over the south rim. We lined up our tripods, set up our cameras, and sat back in some comfortable chairs to watch the epic show before us. After a while we headed into the dining room and continued to watch the storm as we ate a nice meal. The penultimate day of our adventure had concluded in the best way possible.

On the very last day of the trip, we set out to capture one last sunrise before heading back to Flagstaff. The last morning of a great trip like this is always bittersweet. We were all very happy with what we had accomplished and it’s always great to return home, but at the same time it’s hard to leave such a magical place.

We loaded up the van with all of our luggage and gear one last time and set out for Vista Encantada where we would shoot the sunrise. The Grand Canyon delivered yet again and put on a spectacular show. It was amazing looking out across the deep canyon and vast expanse of desert before us. We got to business, experimented with a variety of compositions and angles, and before we knew it, it was time to leave.

On our drive back, we stopped for a great breakfast at Jacobs Lake Inn, made some quick scenic stops at Lees Ferry and the Navajo Bridges, and then hopped on the interstate en route to Flagstaff. We made it back, said our goodbyes, and then each member of the group departed to continue their own adventure. It was sad saying our goodbyes, but we were all going home with great memories and images from a productive and enjoyable trip.

This was an absolutely stellar adventure and in writing this trip report I’m reminded just how enjoyable and exciting the entire experience was. If you’ve been dreaming of traveling to the Desert Southwestand capturing images of its many enchanting landscapes, I couldn’t recommend it enough. In my opinion, the Southwest Monsoon trip has a great itinerary and spends just the right amount of time in all the right places. I hope to get out on this trip again sometime soon and hope to see you out there!

Until next time...