As soon as we touched down, we saw our first bears, a female with two large cubs digging for clams on the mud flats. But first, we needed to get into camp and get our gear ready before we could head out. So, we were escorted into camp by the camp manager, and my personal hero, Caprice. Running this trip every summer has become the highlight of my year, thanks in large part to the amazing crew that run Bear Camp and Caprice, their fearless leader. She’s been running Bear Camp for at least 16 years, and her expertise and calm command make staying here a relaxing and intriguing experience. She has some of the best stories I’ve ever heard. Even if you don’t care a thing about seeing bears, coming out to meet Caprice and the rest of the amazing staff here make the trip well worth it.
Bear Camp has been running for well over twenty years now, and it is a seasonal encampment made from permanent wood platforms on which they erect WeatherPort tents, complete with single sized beds, carpets, coat hooks, and a propane heater. And to discourage any bears from venturing into camp, the camp is surrounded by an electric bear fence.
Bear camp is also right in the middle of the action. The camp overlooks the beaches of Chinitna Bay, which extends inland from Cook Inlet. Bears regularly patrol the beach, and at low tide, they head out onto the mudflats to dig for clams. Just north of camp is the old homestead of Wayne Byers, who homesteaded here in the late 1960’s. It was his agreement to lease the land to the Bear Camp owners that make today’s experience possible. Sadly, Wayne passed away back in 2011, but his legacy and wild spirit remain strong here. The homestead is much in the state it was in when Wayne passed, and for friends and special guests, Caprice will give a tour through the property and talk about the incredible life that Wayne led.
A dozen yards or so beyond Wayne’s place are two rock bluffs that the bear camp staff have come to call The Nursery, due to mother bears regularly bringing cubs up there to rest safely away from large males that pose a very really threat to bear cubs. And just beyond the bluffs, the beach extends northward until it forms a gravel spit. From here, the steaming peak of Mount Iliamna can be seen, an active volcano with several large fumaroles on its sides.